CHROME  COLOURS 
FOR  WOOL 


CASSELLA  COLOR  COMPANY 

' • ) 

182  and  184  Front  Street, 

NEW  YORK. 

Boston:  39  Oliver  Street, 

Philadelphia:  126  and  128  South  Front  Street. 
Providence:  64  Exchange  Place. 

Atlanta:  47  North  Pryor  Street. 

Mont  re  al,  C anada  >59,W!|liam  Street. 


No.  8157 


Franklin  Institute  Library 

PHILADELPHIA 

Class  L.L.. BookS.r...7^j.A. 

3'sy 

A ccession.£.S.3f.J.3.... 

REFERENCE 


GIVEN  BY 


■ „v  ,= 


MANUFACTURE  LYONNAISE  DE  MATIERES  COLORANTES,  LYONS. 


Works  ”La  Mouche". 


RUSSIAN  ANILINE  COLOUR  WORKS  LEOPOLD  CASSELLA  & C°,  RIGA. 


Works  at  Riga. 


LEOPOLD  CASSELLA  & C°,  G.m.b.H.,  FRANKFORT  o.  M. 


Works  at  Mainkur  near  Frankfort  o. 


Chrome  Colours  for  Wool 


Cassella  Color  Company 


182  AND  184  FRONT  STREET 

NEW  YORK. 


BOSTON : 39,  OLIVER  STREET 

PHILADELPHIA:  12R  AND  128  SOUTH  FRONT  STREET 

PROVIDENCE:  si  Ei^riANiAi  pi,ape;  

ATLANTA-;  4T  NO^T 3 .STRDEji  i J * i j * 

MONTREAL,  CANADA,  59  WILLIAM  STREET 


No.  3157. 


1910 

PUBLISHED  BY  CASSELLA  COLOR  COMPANY,  NEW  YORK. 


c c C 


PREFACE. 


Since  the  publication  of  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”  we 
have  brought  out  a considerable  number  of  Chrome  Colours 
which  have  proved  of  excellent  service  for  the  production  of 
fast  shades  on  wool.  The  “Chromate  Process”  which  we  have  in 
the  meantime  introduced  and  described  already  in  Volume  II  of 
our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”  having  gained  immensely  in  import- 
ance, we  have  thought  it  well  to  go  carefully  again  into  the 
subject  of  producing  fast  colours  on  wool,  and  in  the  present 
work  on  the 

Chrome  Colours  for  Wool 

we  are  now  presenting  a full  description  of  our  most  important 
dyestuffs  for  dyeing  fast  shades  on  wool  together  with  a synopsis 
of  the  methods  of  their  application  and  their  special  properties. 
This  volume  also  contains  details  regarding  the  production  of 
the  different  shades  on  various  kinds  of  material. 

Like  our  earlier  publications,  this  work  has  been  prepared 
with  the  greatest  care  on  the  basis  of  practical  experience,  and 
we  trust  that  it  will  prove  equally  useful. 

N E W Y 0 R K , January  1910. 


CASSELLA  COLOR  COMPANY. 


Chrome  Colours  for  Wool 


Page 

Dyestuffs  for  Dyeing  Chromed  Wool 2 

Directions  for  Dyeing  Chromed  Wool 3 

Dyestuffs  for  the  After-Chroming  Method 4 

Directions  for  Dyeing  by  the  After-Chroming  Method 5 

Dyestuffs  suitable  for  the  Chromate  Method 6 

Directions  for  Dyeing  by  the  Chromate  Method 7 

Shading  Products 8 

The  Application  of  the  Various  Methods 9 

Dyeings  of  the  Chrome  Colours 

with  a Synopsis  of  their  Properties  and  Methods  of  Application  11—41 
Dyestuffs  for  the  Production  of  the  Various  Shades  for 

A.  Loose  Wool  45 — 54 

B.  Slubbing  and  Yarn  55 — 65 

C.  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths 66—  76 

D.  Piece-Dyeing 77 — 90 

E.  Machine-Dyeing  91—  98 

F.  Shoddy 99 — 109 

G.  Vigoureux  Printing  110 — 117 

H.  Hat  Dyeing  118—126. 


Chrome  Colours  for  Wool. 


The  Chrome  Colours  used  for  dyeing  fast  shades  on  wool 
are  fixed  with  chrome  according  to  one  or  other  of  the  following 
three  methods: 

a)  The  older  Method  of  Dyeing  on  Chromed  Wool. 

The  wool  is  first  mordanted  with  chrome,  the  Chrome 
Colours  being  then  dyed  on  the  mordanted  wool. 

b)  The  After-Chroming  Process. 

The  wool  is  first  dyed  with  Chrome  Colours,  which 
are  then  fixed  with  bichrome. 

c)  The  Chromate  Process. 

The  wool  is  dyed  straightaway  with  the  bichrome 
added  to  the  dyebath. 

In  the  tables  on  page  12  and  following  pages  will  be  found 
particulars  of  the  suitability  of  the  individual  dyestuffs  for 
these  three  methods  of  fixing. 


Dyestuffs  for  Dyeing*  Chromed  Wool, 


Anthracene  Yellow  C Powder  and  Paste 

* Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  B 

* Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra  Powder  and  Paste 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BW  extra  Powder  and  Paste 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  RR  Powder  and  Paste 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra. 


The  products  marked  with  an  asterisk  (*)  are  best 
dissolved  by  mixing  with  half  their  weight  of  ammonia  and 
adding  hot  water  to  this  mixture. 


The  following  products  are  likewise  suited  for  dyeing 
chromed,  wool,  and  are  especially  well  adapted  for  pale  and 
medium  shades;  when  dyeing  deep  shades  it  is  well  to  after- 
chrome them,  subsequent  to  dyeing  on  chromed  wool,  in  order 
to  ensure  best  fastness  to  alkalies  and  milling. 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  R,  GG 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G,  R,  N 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DW,  DWN,  SWN 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  ER,  3G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  G 


Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  R,  B,  BB,  G,  F,  FR 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 


Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 


Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 


Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 


When  dyeing  in 
polished  copper  ves- 
sels or  machines,  the 
dyebath  heated  to 
about  50°  C.  (120  deg. 
F.)  is  first  charged 
with  0.5  % sulpho- 
cyanide  of  ammonia 
(of  the  weight  of  the 
wool;,  stirred  well, 
and  allowed  to  stand 
for  20  minutes  before 
adding  the  dyestuff 
and  acid. 


Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 


Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra. 


2 


Directions  for  Dyeing  Chromed  Wool. 

The  wool  is  mordanted  at  the  boil  for  1 to  134  hours  with 
bichromate  of  potash  or  bichromate  of  soda  and  the  addition 
of  one  of  the  customary  assistants  (tartaric  acid,  lactoline, 
lignorosine,  etc.)  The  mordant  used  most  frequently  consists  of 

3 % bichrome  and 
2,5  % tartar; 

for  particularly  deep  shades  this  is  increased  to 

4 % bichrome  and 
3 % tartar, 

but  for  pale  shades  the  percentages  are  to  advantage  reduced, 
only 

1 % bichrome  and 

1 % tartar 

for  instance  being  used  for  very  pale  shades. 

After  the  mordanting,  the  wool  should  if  possible  be 
rinsed.  Carbonised  goods  are  best  neutralised  before  the  mor- 
danting, because  the  results  obtained  with  the  bichrome  and 
sulphuric  acid  mordant  are  less  satisfactory. 

The  dyeing  is  done  in  fresh  baths  with  the  addition  of 

1 — 3 % acetic  acid  or 

5  % acetate  of  ammonia  * (which  should 
be  used  especially  in  the  case  of 
very  light  shades  and  of  material 
which  it  is  difficult  to  dye  level  or 
to  penetrate). 

Enter  the  mordanted  and  rinsed  material  at  40 — 50°  C. 
(105 — 120  deg.  F.),  raise  in  about  24  hour  to  the  boil,  and  boil  for 
124  to  2 hours;  after  % to  1 hour’s  boiling,  some  acetic  acid  or 
formic  acid  is  added,  if  necessary,  in  order  to  exhaust  the  baths. 

For  details  regarding  the  subsequent  shading  of  the 
dyeings  see  page  8. 


* Acetate  of  ammonia  is  prepared  by  mixing: 

10  oz  ammonia  (0.913  sp.  g.  or  24  %)  and 
26*4  oz  acetic  acid  (8°  Tw.  or  30  %). 

This  solution  should  be  neutral  and  should  not  change  blue  or  red 
litmus  paper  to  any  extent. 


3 


Dyestuffs  for  the  After-Chroming*  Process. 

Group  A.  Products  to  be  dyed  with  sulphuric  acid  or  acetic  acid. 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DW,  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

* Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 

* Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  R,  B,  BB,  G,  F 
Azo  Chrome  Blue  T,  TB,  AI 

* Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR,  SA,  SBB,  SRG 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  SAS,  SASG,  SASB,  SASN. 

Group  B.  Products  to  be  dyed  with  acetic  acid. 

Anthracene  Yellow  C Powder  and  Paste,  R 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  R,  N,  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 
Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 

* Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  FR 

* Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 

* Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  FR 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  KM,  PF  extra,  PFB  extra, 

PFR  extra,  PFBB  extra 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPN  extra,  PPC  extra 

* Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P extra,  PR  extra,  PPS  extra 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  ST 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSN,  DSF,  DSFB,  DNG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS,  WG,  3G 

and  all  the  products  enumerated  under  Group  A. 

* When  dyeing  the  products  marked  with  an  asterisk  (*)  in  bright 
polished  copper  vessels  or  machines,  the  bath  heated  to  50°  C.  (120  deg.  F.)  is 
first  charged  with  sulphocyanide  of  ammonia  (of  the  weight  of  the  wool), 
stirred  well,  and  left  standing  for  20  minutes  before  adding  Glauber’s  salt, 
acid  and  dyestuff. 


4 


Directions  for  Dyeing  by  the  After-Chroming  Process. 

Dyeing  with  Sulphuric  Acid. 

Charge  the  bath  with  1 — 4 % sulphuric  acid,  according 
to  the  depth  of  shade  to  he  dyed,  and  with  the  requisite  quantities 
of  dyestuff;  enter  the  well  scoured  wool  at  about  50°  C.  (120 
deg.  F.),  raise  in  20  to  30  minutes  to  the  boil,  and  continue 
boiling  for  1 hour.  Then  cool  off,  and  treat  for  % hour  at  the 
boil  with  one-half  to  two-thirds  the  quantity  of  bichrome  as  of 
dyestuff  used. 

As  a rule,  the  same  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid  as  of  dye- 
stuff is  used,  but  not  less  than  1 % and  not  more  than  4 %,  or 
for  Blacks  5 % ; for  Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D and  SWN, 
however,  not  more  than  3 % sulphuric  acid  should  be  used. 

In  the  case  of  Azo  Chrome  Blue,  1%  sulphuric  acid  is  added 
together  with  the  bichrome,  the  blue  being  developed  by  one 
hour’s  boiling. 


Dyeing  with  Acetic  Acid. 

Charge  the  bath  with  10  % Glauber’s  salt,  2 — 3 % acetic 
acid  and  the  requisite  quantities  of  dyestuff;  enter  the  well 
scoured  wool  at  45 — 50°  C.  (110 — 120  deg.  F.).  raise  in  20  to  30 
minutes  to  the  boil,  and  exhaust  the  bath  after  about  XA  hour’s 
boiling  by  the  gradual  addition  of  1 — 4 % sulphuric  acid.  Then 
cool  off,  and  chrome  for  XA  to  % hour  at  the  boil  with  one-half 
to  two-thirds  the  quantity  of  bi chrome  as  of  dyestuff  used. 

For  Blacks,  the  dyeing  may  be  started  at  70°  C.  (160 
deg.  F.)  and  the  bath  be  brought  to  the  boil  at  once.  Of  bichrome, 
only  one-third  the  weight  of  dyestuff  is  as  a rule  used  for 
chroming  black  dyeings. 

When  dyeing  in  calcareous  water,  the  bath  must,  in  the 
case  of  Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE  and  FB,  be  charged 
first  with  2 % oxalate  of  ammonia*  before  adding  the  dyestuff 
and  acid. 


Regarding  the  subsequent  shading  of  the  dyeings  see 
page  8. 


* Oxalate  of  ammonia,  commercially  pure,  can  be  bought  or  be  easily 
prepared  by  dissolving  1 lb  oxalic  acid  in  1 gallon  of  hot  water,  and  neutralising 
this  solution  with  about  18  oz  ammonia  of  0.913  sp.  gr.  The  solution  should 
not  change  either  blue  or  red  litmus  paper  and  contains  about  1^4  lbs  oxalate 
of  ammonia  crystals. 


5 — 


Dyestuffs  suitable  for  the  Chromate  Process. 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG. 

The  solubility  of  these  brands  is  improved  by  mixing  the 
dyestuff  with  half  its  weight  of  ammonia,  hot  water  being  then 
poured  over  the  mixture. 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  ER,  3G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  LC,  MRB,  MGG,  LRR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  FF,  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG,  M,  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  6R,  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  D,  STW 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 


Directions  for  Dyeing  by  the  Chromate  Process. 

The  dyestuffs  must  be  added  to  the  dyebath  in  a well 
dissolved  state. 

Boil  up  the  bath,  cool  off,  add  the  requisite  quantity  of 
bichrome  (about  half  the  weight  as  of  dyestuff  used),  and  3 — 4% 
magnesium  sulphate  in  the  case  of  soft  water,  entering  the  well 
scoured  material  at  about  70 — 75°  C.  (160 — 170  deg.  F.).  Work 
the  goods  for  some  time  at  this  temperature,  raise  to  the 
boil,  and  dye  boiling  for  IK  to  2 hours.  In  the  case  of  pale  and 
medium  shades,  the  bath  is  then  sufficiently  exhausted;  for  deep 
shades  it  is  recommended,  after  one  hour’s  boiling,  to  gradually 
add  to  the  bath  1 — 3%  acetic  acid,  well  diluted. 

Material  which  is  difficult  to  dye  level  (loose  wool,  etc.) 
is  to  advantage  dyed  with  the  addition  of  3 — 4 % Universal 
oil  FD  or  Monopole  soap;  this  addition  is  likewise  useful  for 
yarns  which  show  a tendency  to  felt. 

Dyestuff  and  bichrome  should  be  dissolved  separately,  the 
latter  being  added  to  the  bath  just  before  entering  the  goods. 

Regarding  the  subsequent  shading  see  page  8. 


7 


Shading*  Products. 


For  subsequently  shading  the  colours  produced  on  chromed 
wool  or  by  the  after-chroming  or  the  chromate  process,  the  same 
Chrome  Colours  are  usually  employed  which  were  used  for  the 
dyeing  proper.  This  is  also  the  case  if  the  colours  have  already 
been  fixed  or  chromed  on  the  fibre.  This  applies  particularly 
to  loose  material.  The  dyebath  is  first  cooled  off  to  some  extent, 
whereupon  the  dyestuff  is  added  well  dissolved  and  in  a diluted 
form,  the  bath  being  brought  again  gradually  to  the  boil 
and  boiling  being  continued  for  20  to  30  minutes.  If  larger 
quantities  of  the  Anthracene  Colours  (more  than  one-fourth  of 
the  quantity  used  at  first)  are  employed  for  the  subsequent 
shading,  they  should  be  fixed  again  with  a little  bichrome  in 
order  to  ensure  best  possible  fastness  to  milling;  in  the  case  of 
smaller  quantities,  this  subsequent  chroming  may  be  omitted. 

The  chromed  dyeings  may  on  the  other  hand  also  very 
well  be  shaded  subsequently  with  Acid  Colours  possessing  good 
fastness  to  milling,  of  which  the  following  may  be  mentioned: 


Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 


Formyl  Violet,  all  brands 
Milling  Yellow  0 
Wool  Bed  B. 


When  shading,  the  bath  should  be  cooled  off  slightly 
before  adding  the  well  dissolved  dyestuff. 

For  yarn,  and  particularly  for  piece-goods,  easily  levelling 
colours  are  frequently  used  for  the  subsequent  shading  and  may 
be  added  straightaway  to  the  boiling  liquor.  The  following 
are  the  most  suitable  for  this  purpose: 


Tetra  Cyanole  V 
Cyanole  extra,  FF 
Cyanole  Fast  Green  G 
Cyanole  Green  B,  6G 


Acid  Yellow  AT 
Orange  GG 
Azo  Orseille  BB 
Acid  Violet  6BC. 


8 


The  Application  of  the  Various  Methods. 

The  question  as  to  which  of  the  three  methods  should  be 
applied  in  practice  must  be  solved  in  accordance  with  the  nature 
of  the  material  to  be  dyed  and  the  dyeing  plant  available. 

The  following  remarks  may  generally  serve  as  a guide 
in  this  respect: 


Dyeing  on  Chromed  Wool 

is  generally  given  the  preference  for  piece-goods,  except  in  the 
case  of  Blacks.  This  method  is  preferred  also  for  loose  wool  or 
yarns  when  these  materials  still  contain  fatty  impurities,  which 
are  less  disturbing  when  chroming  first  than  they  may  do  if 
any  other  process  is  employed.  It  is  always  best  however  to 
see  that  the  goods  are  well  scoured  before  dyeing. 

For  shoddy  goods  which  are  stripped  previously  with 
bichrome  and  acid,  dyestuffs  which  can  be  dyed  on  chromed  wool 
are  likewise  preferred,  because  the  stripping  acts  simultaneously 
as  mordanting;  deep  shades  are  then  in  most  cases  advantage- 
ously subjected  to  a slight  after-chroming. 

This  method  is  likewise  given  the  preference  for  ready- 
milled  soft  or  stiff  hats,  especially  when  dyeing  such  mode 
colours  as  can  be  shaded  fairly  easily  on  a chrome  mordant. 


The  After-Chroming  Method 

is  generally  applied  in  the  dyeing  of  loose  wool,  slubbing,  yarn, 
and  frequently  also  for  piece-goods,  especially  when  producing 
black,  blue  and  brown  shades,  blacks  being  dyed  almost  exclu- 
sively by  this  method.  Mode  shades  are  in  a like  manner  mostly 
dyed  by  this  method  by  reason  of  the  simpler  method  of  working. 
The  same  method  is  as  a rule  given  the  preference  for  dyeing 
slubbing,  worsted  yarn,  cops,  or  cheeses  in  dyeing  machines. 

For  piece-goods,  the  after -chroming  method  offers  also  the 
advantage  of  staining  cotton  effect  threads  the  least. 


Shoddy  is  in  most  instances  dyed  by  this  method,  the 
acid  remaining  in  the;  gqods^oyer  frojn  ibe:  catb<mj3ingJ  J 

serving  at  the  same  time*  W 'tbV^TWhg.i  i *:  i * * 


In  hat  dyeing,  the  after-chroming  method  is  given  the  pre- 
ference for  the  dyeing  of  wool  hats  in  the  half-milled  state 
(as  shapes)  and  is  generally  applied  for  producing  blacks  on 
ready-milled  and  stiffened  hats. 

The  Chromate  Process 

is  simpler  still  in  its  application  than  the  after-chroming  method 
and  has  been  principally  adopted  for  the  production  of  the  many 
mode  shades  as  well  as  for  browns  and  olives.  In  some  of  the 
wool  districts  this  method  is  applied  almost  exclusively  for 
producing  these  shades  on  worsted  yarn,  slubbing  and  piece- 
goods. 

Furthermore,  in  machine-dyeing  this  method  offers  ad- 
vantages on  account  of  the  ease  with  which  the  shading  is 
accomplished. 

For  shoddy,  the  chromate  process  only  comes  into  consi- 
deration if  the  goods  have  not  been  carbonised;  for  carbonised 
material  the  after-chroming  method  is  the  more  advantageous. 

The  chromate  process  is  of  especial  importance  for 
the  dyeing  of  fur  felt  hats  in  the  half-milled  state  (as  shapes); 
and  all  kinds  of  mode  shades,  browns,  olives,  etc.,  are  conse- 
quently produced  on  such  hats  by  this  method. 


7 € e-  c < 


Dyeings  of  the  Chrome  Colours 
with  a Synopsis  of  their 
Properties  and  Methods  of  Application. 


Chrome  Colours 


May  be  dyed 

To  be 

Dyestuff 

on 

Chromed 

Wool 

by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 

by  the 
Chromate 
Process 

Loose 

Wool 

Stub- 
bing I 

Yarn 

l 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 

,1^5  o/o 30/o 

JjOOd 

I 

Very 

good 

Good 

4 

• 

4 

4 

Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
On  chromed  wool  somewhat  fuller  shades 
are  obtained.  The  shades  obtained  according  to 
the  chromate  process  are  about  the  same. 

1 

2 

Anthracene  Yellow  C powder 

1,5%  3 0 0 

Very 

good 

i 

Very 

good 

Good 

4 

3 

2 

Dye- 

ings 

on 

chrom- 

ed 

wool 

MiH 

Same  as  Anthracene  Yellow  BN. 

3-4 

3 

Anthracene  Yellow  RN 

Good 

Very 

good 

Good 

4 

4 

4 

Same  as  Anthracene  Yellow  BN. 

4 

Anthracene  Yellow  G G powder 

Good 

Very 

good 

Good 

4. 

4 

4 

After-chromed  with  chromium  fluor- 
ide. With  bichrome  duller  shades  of  the  same 
eminent  fastness  are  obtained.  On  chromed 
wool  the  shades  are  fuller,  and  by  the 
chromate  process  they  are  rather  duller. 

* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


12 


for  Wool. 


used  for 


Cloth  with 

Piece-  Effect  Threads  Shod- 
Goods  _ of dy 


Cotton]  Silk 


Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 


Ma-  ] Vigou- 

chine  „ , reux 
Dye-  Hats  Print- 
ing ing 


Remarks 


4 4 


2 3 


4 3 4 4 4 


3-4 

After- 

chrom- 

ed 

with 

chrom- 

ium 

fluor- 

ide 

1 


1 3-4  4 


Anthracene  Yellow  BN  belongs 
to  the  most  important  yellow 
Chrome  Colours  because  it  levels 
excellently  when  dyed  by  any  of 
these  methods  and  can  consequently 
be  used  under  any  circumstances 
as  a yellowing  agent. 


Anthracene  Yellow  C Powder  is 
superior  to  BN  in  its  fastness  to 
jnilling  and  light,  and  may  be  used 
wherever  the  very  highest  require- 
ments are  made  with  regard  to 
fastness.  It  also  serves  as  the 
best  substitute  for  fustic,  particu- 
larly on  chromed  wool,  and  is  much 
faster  to  light  and  acids  than  fustic. 

Anthracene  Yellow  C is  also 
delivered  “in  Paste”form. 

Anthracene  Yellow  R is  another, 
more  orange,  brand. 


Behaves  similarly  to  Anthracene 
Yellow  BN,  and  is  somewhat  redder 
and  faster  to  light  than  this 
product. 


This  is  the  most  greenish  of  the  \ 
Anthracene  Yellow  brands,  possess- 
ing eminent  fastness  to  light.  It  is 
particularly  valuable  for  military . 
cloths. 

On  account  of  its  good  fastness 
to  light  it  is  used  also  according 
to  the  chromate  process  as  a shad- 
ing dyestuff  for  pale  tones. 


2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


13 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


by  the 
After- 

, chroming 

Wool  Process  Process 


on 

chromed 


by  the 
Chromate 


To  be 


_ 


Loose  Slub- 


Wool  bing 


Yarn 


Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 

1,5  °/o  3 % 


Good 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 
Somewhat  heavier  shades  are  obtained  on 
chromed  wool.  Very  good  shades  are  also 
obtained  when  afterchrome d. 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 


1,5  °/  o 


3 °/o 


Very 

good 


Good 


Very 

good 


2 

Dye- 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 


Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG 

1,5  o/o  3 o/o 


Good  Very 
good 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 


Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  3 G pat. 

2 % 4 % 


Good 


Very 

good 


Good 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process.  On 
chromed  wool,  and  by  the  after- 
chroming  process,  dyeings  of  the  same 
shade  are  obtained. 


Very 

good 


ings 


on 


chrom- 

ed 

wool 

3-4 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


14 


for  Wool. 


used  for  * 

Remarks 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  | Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
is  one  of  the  most  important  types 
of  yellow,  because  of  its  good  level- 
ling quality.  It  is  excellently  adap- 
ted for  use  as  a yellow  shading 
product. 

2 

1 

1 

4 

2 

3 

1 

3 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 
is  superior  to  Anthracene  Chromate 
Yellow  KL  in  fastness  to  light  and 
milling,  and  will  answer  very  severe 
demands  for  fastness. 

4 

2 

CO 

1 

1 

3-4 

4 

4 

4 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG 
possesses  excellent  fastness  to  light 
and  for  this  reason  is  very  often 
used  in  the  production  of  mode 
shades.  Its  level  dyeing  properties 
are  also  very  good. 

3 

2 

1 

4 

4 

1 

CO 

l 

CO 

to 

1 

CO 

This  is  a yellow  brown,  dyeing 
very  level,  and  used  particularly  for 
the  production  of  leather  and  simi- 
lar shades  by  the  chromate  process. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


15 


Chrome  Colours 


1 

May  be  dyed 

To  be 

Dyestuff 

on 

Chromed 

Wool 

by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 

| by  the 
Chromate 
Process 

Loose 

Wool 

\ Stub- 
bing 

Yarn 

9 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

1,50/0  30/0 

Can  be 
dyed  to 

Very 

Not 

Qiiitnhlp 

4 

4 

4 

I 

■■■ 

good 

advantage 
in  light  and 
medium 
shades;  in 
deep 

shades  the 
dyeings 

oUliauic 

Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  pro- 
cess. On  chromed  wool  somewhat  more 
yellowish  red  dyeings  are  produced. 

must  be 
after- 
chromed 

10 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G pat. 

1,5%  3% 

Same  as 
Anthra- 

Very 
good ; 

Good 

4 

3 

3 

| | 

■ ■ 

cene 
Chrome 
Red  A 

in  contra- 
distinction 
to  the  “A” 
brand  it 
cannot  be 
dyed  with 
the 

addition  of 

i 

Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
On  chromed  wool  and  by  the  chromate 
process  somewhat  paler  shades  are  produced. 

large 
quantities 
of  acid 

11 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 

1,5  °/o  30/0 

Good 

Very 

good 

Good 

4 

CO 

1 

4^ 

4 

n 

Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
On  chromed  wool  and  by  the  chromate 
process  the  same  shades  are  obtained. 

12 

Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 

Same  as 
Anthra- 
cene 
Chrome 
Red  A 

Very 

Good 

4 

4 

4 

Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
Somewhat  paler  shades  of  the  same  tone  are 
obtained  when  dyeing  by  the  chromate 
process. 

good 

* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 
- 36  - 


for  W ool. 


used  for  * 

Remarks 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Vigou- 
reux 
Hats  | Print- 
1 ing 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  in 
addition  to  excellent  fastness  to 
light  and  milling , etc.,  possesses 
very  good  levelling  properties,  and 
is  consequently  suited  for  producing 
both  reddish  browns  and  prunes,  and 
also  mode  shades. 

3 

2-3 

3-4 

3 

3-4 

3 

1 

3 

Yields  bright  red  shades  of  good 
fastness,  and  is  particularly  well 
suited  for  dyeing  madder  shades. 
It  is  also  employed  as  a shading 
product  both  for  the  after-chrom- 
ing process,  and  on  chromed  wool. 

3-4 

1 

1 

3-4 

4 

3—4 

| 

3 

4 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F is,  among 
the  red  dyestuffs,  one  of  the  fastest 
to  light.  It  produces,  when  fixed 
with  bichrome  or  chromium  fluo- 
ride, dyeings  of  perfect  fastness 
to  milling.  It  is  used  for  producing 
fast  Madder  shades  on  any  hind  of 
material,  and  in  several  countries 
red  military  cloths  are  dyed  there- 
with. Its  principal  advantage  over 
Alizarine  and  Madder  Reds  is  its 
superior  fastness  to  carbonising  and 
rubbing. 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

3 4 

Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
combines  with  good  levelling  power 
very  good  fastness  to  milling  and 
light.  It  is  used  chiefly  for  produc- 
ing purple  and  prune  shades,  and 
as  a shading  product.  It  is  like- 
wise excellently  suited  for  dyeing 
piece-goods  with  silk  effects,  as  it 
leave ? the  latter  unstained. 

! = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

>ee  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66-75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


17 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


13 


Anthracene  Add  Brown  G pat. 

2%  4°/g_ 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
The  same  shades  are  obtained  by  the  chrom- 
ate process. 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


by  the 
After- 


by  the 


Chromate 


chroming 
Process  Process 


Good  only 
in  light 
and 

medium 
shades ; 
for  deep 
shades 
a slight 
after- 
chroming 
Is 

necessary 
in  order 
to  better 
fix  the 
colour. 


Very 

good 


Good 


To  be 


Loose 

Wool 


3-4 


bing 


14 


Anthracene  Acid  Brown  R pat. 

2%  4% 


Same  as 
Anthra- 
cene Acid 


Very 

good 


Brown  G 


Good 


2-3 


2-3 


3-4 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
The  same  shades,  only  slightly  lighter,  are 
obtained  by  the  chromate  process. 


15 


Anthracene  Acid  Brown  N pat. 

2 °/o  4% 


Same  as  Anthracene  Acid  Brown  R. 


16 


Anthracene  Acid  Brown  B pat. 

2 % 4 % 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
On  chromed  wool  somewhat  fuller  shades 
are  obtained,  and  by  the  chromate  process 
slightly  lighter  shades. 


Good 


Very 

good 


Good 


3-4 


Very 

good 


Good 


3 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


18 


for  Wool. 


used  for  * 

Remarks 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

4 

1 

1 

4 

4 

4 

4 

3 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G is  the 
most  yellowish  brown  of  the  An- 
thracene Acid  Colour  group.  It  is 
distinguished  for  its  good  levelling 
property  and  is  used  for  the 
production  of  yellowish  brown  dye- 
ings and  other  mode  shades,  and 
particularly  also  for  shading  mili- 
tary grey,  so-called  “field  grey”. 

4 

2 

1 

1 

2 

CO 

1 

1 

2 

Yields  dyeings  of  very  good  fast- 
ness to  light.  It  is  used  only  for 
articles  which  are  not  subjected  to 
severe  alkaline  milling. 

The  product  has  proved  particu- 
larly useful  in  piece-dyeing  for  pro- 
ducing brown  shades  fast  to  light 
and  milling. 

3 

2 

1 

3-4 

3 

3 

1 

3 

These  two  products  belong  to 
the  best  covering  of  the  cheaper 
dyestuffs.  Their  dyeings  are  exceed- 
ingly fast  to  milling,  but  in  fastness 
to  light  they  are  not  equal  to  the 
Anthracene  Chrome  Browns. 

They  are  used  largely  also  for 
the  dyeing  of  shoddy,  particularly 
the  “B”  brand.  Their  dyeings  are 
very  fast  to  steaming  and  carbon- 
ising. 

2 

2 

1 

Tt< 

1 

CO 

3 

3 

1 

3-4 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


19 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


Chromed 

Wool 


Yfter?  by,he 

chroming  Chromate 
Process  Process 


To  be 


Loose 

Wool 


Stub- 

bing 


17 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D pat. 

,40/p. 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 


Good  only 
in  light 
shades; 
in  medium 
and  deep 
shades  a 
slight 
after- 
chroming 
is 

necessary 
in  order 
to  better 
fix  the 
colour. 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


18 


Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DW 

2°/o~  40/0 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 


Not 

suitable 


3-4 


3—4 


19 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 

2 0/0  4 % 


Dyed  by  the  aft«r.chroming  process. 
The  same  shades  are  obtained  on  chromed 
wool  and  by  the  chromate  process. 


May  be 
dyed  in 
light  and 
medium 
shades  on 
chromed 
wool ; 
in  deep 
shades, 
after- 

chroming  is 
necessary 
for  the 
better 
fixation  of 
the  colour. 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


3-4 


3—4 


20 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 

pat. 

2 0/0  4 °/o 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
The  same  dyeings  are  obtained  on  chromed 
wool. 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


20 


for  Wool. 


lused  fop  * 

Remarks 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  | Silk 

. I Knit-  j ^.a_ 
Shod-  ..  1 chine 

dv  I g ! Dye- 

y | Yarn  ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

4 

2—3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
occupies  the  same  position  among 
the  Chrome  Browns  as  Anthracene 
Yellow  BN  among  the  Chrome 
Yellows,  being  the  typical  best 
levelling  product.  It  is  used  most 
extensively  on  loose  wool,  slubbing, 
yarn  and  piece-goods,  for  brown 
shades  and  especially  also  for  the 
many  brownish  mode  shades,  for 
“ Field  Grey ”,  etc.  The  fastness  to 
milling  and  light  is  excellent. 

3 

2 

1 

4 

3 

1 

CO 

3 

3 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DW 
comes  in  the  first  place  into  con- 
sideration for  producing  brown 
shades;  more  recently  it  is  fre- 
quently substituted  by  the  “ DWN ” 
brand. 

3 

2 

1 

4 

3 

! 

CO 

I 

CO 

4 

Does  not  possess  quite  the  same 
excellent  levelling  property  as  An- 
thracene Chrome  Brown  D,  but  may 
still  be  used  very  well  for  producing 
medium  and  deep  mode  shades.  Dyed 
with  acetic  acid  and  after-chromed, 
its  dyeings  possess  excellent  fast- 
ness to  milling,  light,  and  steaming. 

4 

3 

2 

4 

.4 

4 

3 

4 

Besides  its  good  levelling  pro- 
perty, Anthracene  Chrome  Brown 
SWN  offers  the  special  advantage  of 
a very  fine  shade.  Dyed  direct,  it 
yields  deep  brown  shades  with  a 
yellow  tone  so  frequently  in  demand 
nowadays.  It  may  at  the  same 
time  be  used  for  the  production  of 
mode  shades  also  in  machines.  It 
is  best  dyed  with  acetic  acid,  and 
after-chromed.  The  dyeings  pos- 
sess the  same  fastness  to  milling 
and  light  as  those  of  Anthracene 
Chrome  Brown  D. 

= Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 


iee  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66— 75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


21 


Cluronae  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


Chromed 


by  the 
After- 


, chroming 
Wool  j Process 


by  the 
Chromate 
Process 


To  be 


Loose  Slub- 
Wool  bing 


Yarn 


21 


Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 

1 0/o  2 o/o 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process.  When 
dyed  on  chromed  wool,  somewhat  deeper 
shades  are  obtained,  whereas,  when  dyed  by 
the  after-chroming  process,  the  same 
shades  are  obtained  as  by  the  chromate  process. 


22 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  ER 

i 


Good 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process.  On 
c h r o m ed  wool,  slightly  deeper  shades 
and  by  the  after-chroming  process, 
slightly  lighter  shades  are  obtained. 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Good 


Very 

good 


23 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WSpat. 

2 °/o  4°/o 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Same  as  Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB. 


24 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WG  pat. 

2 % 4 % 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Same  as  Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  E B. 


Very 

good 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


22 


for  Wool 


used  for  * 

Remarks 

f Piece- 
1 Goods 

Cloth  with  1 
Effect  Threads  Shod- 

of  dv  ! ting 

Cotton)  Silk  | Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

4 

1 

1 

3 

4 

4 

3—4 

4 

These  four  dyestuffs  belong  to 
the  same  group,  and  are  distinguish- 
ed for  their  property  of  being 
fixable  by  any  of  the  three  methods 
of  chroming.  They  may  equally 
well  be  dyed  on  chromed  wool  and 
by  the  after-chroming  process,  and 
yield  especially  good  results  when 
dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 
Dyeings  produced  by  any  of  the  three 
methods  are  of  excellent  fastness  to 
light  and  milling. 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
and  ER  yield  the  deepest  brown 
shades  and  possess  approximately 
double  the  tinctorial  power  of  the 
other  products. 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  ER 
dyes  a redder  and  even  more  covered 
shade  than  the  EB  brand. 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS 
yields  a much  brighter  brown,  and 
the  WG  brand  likewise  a very 
bright  brown  with  a yellow  cast. 

The  Anthracene  Chromate  Browns 
belong  to  the  browns  of  best  fast- 
ness to  light,  and  are  not  surpassed 
in  either  fastness  to  steaming  or 
acids  by  any  other  brown  Chrome 
Colour. 

4 

2 

1 

3 

4 

4 

3 

3 

4 

| 

2 

1 

3 

4 

4 

1 

00 

4 

4 

2 

1 

3 

4 

4 

3—4 

4 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66— 75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


23 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


25 


Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  R pat. 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
On  chromed  wool  it  yields  dyeings  of  a 
somewhat  brighter,  by  the  chromate  pro- 
cess dyeings  of  a somewhat  paler,  shade. 


26 


Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  B pat. 

2 o/o  4% 


Same  as  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  R. 


27 


Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB  pat. 

2 o/o  4% 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
Dyeings  on  chromed  wool  are  of  a slightly 
brighter  shade. 


28 


Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  Q pat. 

2 °/o  4 % 


Same  as  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB. 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


Very  good 
in  light  and 
medium 
shades ; 
deep 
shades 
must  be 
fixed  with 
a little 
bichrome. 


by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 


by  the 
Chromate 
Process 


Very 

good 


Good 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Good 


Not 

suitable 


Same  as  Very 

An‘  good 

thracene 
Chrome 
Blue  R 


Not 

suitable 


To  b( 


Loose  Slub- 


Wool  bing 


3-4 


3-4 


3-4 


3-4 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Goo 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties 


24 


for  Wool. 


used 

for  * 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  | Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

Remarks 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

Is  chiefly  dyed  by  the  after- 
chroming  method  and  is  the  blue 
the  most  largely  used  by  this  me- 
thod of  dyeing.  It  is  especially 
distinguished  by  its  deep  shade  and 
eminent  fastness  to  milling  and 
light.  On  piece-goods  Anthracene 
Chrome  Blue  R is  likewise  dyed  on 
chromed  wool,  offering  in  this  case 
the  advantage  of  leaving  cotton  and 
silk  effects  perfectly  unstained. 

4 

4 

2-3 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

Possesses  the  same  properties 
and  commands  the  same  scope  of 
application  as  Anthracene  Chrome 
Blue  R.  Its  dyeings  are  somewhat 
brighter  and  do  not  appear  reddish 
in  artificial  light. 

4 

1 

CO 

1-2 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB 
belongs  likewise  to  the  group  of  the 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  R.  Be- 
sides for  blues,  it  is  used  frequent- 
ly for  dyeing  olives,  browns  and 
mode  shades. 

4 

2-3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Is  the  most  greenish  of  the 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  series  and 
is  distinguished  by  very  good 
levelling  power.  It  is  used  exten- 
sively for  producing  blue,  greenish 
blue  and  mode  shades.  On  loose 
wool  and  yarn  it  is  principally 
dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method, 
but  on  piece-goods  frequently  also 
on  chromed  wool,  levelling  very 
well  on  mordanted  i cool. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


25 


Chrome  Colours 


May  be  dyed 

To  be 

Dyestuff 

on  j 

Chromed 
Wool 

by  the 
After- 
I chroming 
Process 

by  the 
Chromate 
Process 

Loose 

Wool 

Stub- 

bing 

L 

Yarn 

29 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F pat. 

;,a2%  4°/o 

May  be 
used  for  the 
direct 
dyeing 

Very 

Not 

suitable 

4 

4 

4 

of  light 
shades ; 
in  the  case 
of  medium 
and  dark 
shades  the 
dyeings 
must  be 

good 

Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
On  chromed  wool  somewhat  brighter 
dyeings  are  obtained. 

fixed  sub- 
sequently 
with 

bichrome 

30 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  FR 

20/a  4°/o 

Same  as 

Very 

Not 

3-4 

4 

4 

cene 
Chrome 
Blue  F 

good 

suitable 

Same  as  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F. 

31 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BW  extra 

Powder  pat. 

l,5o/o  30/0 

Very 

good 

Not 

suitable 

Not  very 
well  suited 

4 . 

4 

4 

U§j 

* 

Dyed  on  chromed  wool. 

32 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RR  W extra 

Powder  pat. 

Very 

Not 

Good 

4 

4 

4 

Dyed  on  chromed 
mate  process  some 
obtained. 

[wool.  Bythechro- 
what  paler  shades  are 

good 

suitable 

* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


26 


for  W ool. 


\ used  for  * 

Remarks 

: Piece- 
1 Goods 

Cloth  with 

EffectThreads  Shod- 
of  I dy 

Cotton  Silk 

Knll~  ! chine 
ting  Dye-  Hats 
Yarn  Ing 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

4 

! _ 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Of  all  the  after-chroming  blues, 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F yields 
the  brightest  shade,  being  noted 
for  eminent  fastness  to  light  and 
milling  and  for  very  good  levelling 
properties.  It  is  used  very  exten- 
sively especially  for  dyeing  slub- 
bing  and  piece-goods.  It  does  not 
stain  effect  threads. 

I 4 

4 

2 

4 

4 

4 

3 

3 

Has  a somewhat  more  purplish 
shade  than  Anthracene  Chrome 
Blue  F and  is  therefore  especially 
well  suited  for  producing  reddish 
blue  and  dark  blue  shades. 

4 

2 

1 

2 

3 

4 

1 

1 

CO 

These  two  products  differ  in  so 
far  from  our  other  Anthracene 
Chrome  Blues  as  they  are  used  for 
dyeing  on  chromed  wool  only.  On 
previously  mordanted  loose  wool, 
hanks,  or  piece-goods,  they  yield 
intense  blue  shades  of  eminent 
y fastness  to  milling  and  light. 

Both  products  are  marketed 
both  in  powder  and  paste  form. 
For  dissolving  the  powder  products, 
it  is  recommended  to  mix  the  dye- 
stuff first  with  some  ammonia 
(about  half  the  weight  of  the  dye- 
stuff) and  then  to  pour  hot  water 
over  this  mixture. 

1 4 

2 

1 

2 

3 

4 

1 

1 

CO 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66-75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


27 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 


by  the 
Chromate 
Process 


To  be 


Loose 

Wool 


Stub- 

bing 


33 


Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER  pat. 

2»/o  40/0 


Dyed  by  the  after-chromingmethoi 
On  chromed  wool  somewhat  brighter 
dyeings  are  obtained. 


34 


Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB  pat. 


Same  as  Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER. 


35 


Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE  pat. 

1,5  0/0 


Anthracene  Blue  Black  C pat. 


0.75  °! 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
On  chromed  wool,  somewhat  more  bluish 
shades,  by  the  chromate  process  the  same, 
shades  are  obtained. 


Can  be 
dyed  to 
good  ad- 
vantage in 
light  and 
medium 
shades : in 
deep 

shades  the 
dyeings 
must  be 
subse- 
quently 
fixed  with 
some 
bichrome 


Same  as 
An- 
thracene 
Acid  Blue 
ER 


Good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
Dyeings  produced  on  chromed  wool  are  a 
little  more  bluish. 


Fixed  very 
well  on 
chromed 
wool  In 
light  and 
medium 
shades 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties 


28 


for  W ool. 


used 

fop  * 

Remarks 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

1 Vlgou- 
reux 
Hats  Prlnt_ 

I ing 

4 

1 

CO 

1 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER  and 
EB  serve  in  the  first  place  for  the 
production  of  blue  dyeings  of  good 
fastness  to  milling  and  light , and 
especially  for  medium  and  deep  blue 
Indigo  shades.  The  dyeings  of  both 
products  offer  the  advantage  of 
yielding  a nitric  acid  test  similar 
to  Indigo. 

The  EB  brand  yields  a slightly 
more  bluish,  the  ER  brand  a 
somewhat  more  purplish,  shade;  the 
two  products  may  be  used  in  com- 
bination with  each  other. 

4 

1 

CO 

1 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

4 

3—4 

2 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

Not  quite  equal  to  Anthracene 
Blue  Black  C in  point  of  levelling, 
but  very  serviceable  for  shading 
purposes,  especially  owing  to  its 
eminent  fastness  to  light,  even  in 
pale  shades.  Besides  for  mode  and 
grey  shades,  it  is  frequently  also 
used  in  combination  with  other 
black  dyestuffs  for  producing  bluish 
black  shades. 

4 

2 

1 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  C pos- 
sesses excellent  levelling  properties, 
and  is  used  to  advantage  as  a shad- 
ing product  for  all  kinds  of  mode 
and  other  dull  shades  on  loose 
wool,  piece-goods,  slubbing,  or  yarn, 
and  also  in  machine-dyeing.  The 
dyestuff  is  not  sensitive  to  copper 
and  may  also  be  dyed  in  iron 
vessels. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

3ee  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66-75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


29 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


37 


Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 

1,5  % _ , 3 °/jg. 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 


by  the 
Chromate 
Process 


Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process.  The 
after-chroming  method  y ields  the  same 
shades. 


Good 
in  light 
and 

medium 
shades.  In 
deep 
shades  a 
light  after- 
chroming 
is  required 


39 


Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR  pat. 

2 °/o  4°A 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 
After-chromed  dyeings  show  the  same 
shade ; dyeings  on  chromed  wool  are  some- 
what brighter. 


40 


Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 
On  chromed  wool  and  by  the  after- 
chroming  method  more  purplish  shades 

are  obtained. 


Same  as 
An- 
thracene 
Chromate 
Violet  XB 


Good 


Good 


Very 

good 


To  be 


Loose 

Wool 


Stub- 

bing 


Good 


Very 

good 


Good 


Very 

good 


Good 


Very 

good 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


30 


for  Wool. 


used  for  * 

Remarks 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  | Silk 

. I Knit- 

t \ ,ln* 

y | Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux- 

Print- 

ing 

3 

2-3 

Tj< 

I 

CO 

3 

1 

CO 

3 

1 

3 

This  product  produces  brilliant 
shades  of  red  of  good  fastness , and 
is  used  especially  for  the  production 
cf  madder  red  shades.  It  is  also 
used  as  a shading  product  by  the 
after-chroming  process  as  well  as 
on  a chrome  bottom  and  for  chrom- 
ate process  dyeings. 

4 

| 

3 

1 

CO 

3 

4 

4 

3-4 

to 

CO 

Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
is  especially  serviceable  when  dyed 
by  the  chromate  process  end  is 
used  chiefly  for  the  production  of 
violet  and  prune  shades,  and  for 
shading  purposes.  Sillc  effects  are 
not  stained  by  this  product. 

4 

3-4 

3 

4 

4 

4 

2 

3 

This  blue  is  of  very  good  fast- 
ness to  milling,  etc.,  and  excels  in 
fastness  to  light.  It  is  used  by  the 
chromate  process  as  a shading  and 
saddening  product  and  also  with 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  and  is 
especially  suited  for  deep  shades, 
because  of  its  low  cost. 

When  dyeing  in  soft  or  distilled 
water,  the  bath  should  be  charged 
with  S — k % magnesium  sulphate, 
which  effects  a better  exhaustion 
and  a deeper  shade. 

4 

4 

1 

CO 

3 

4 

4 

3 

4 

Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G is 
exceedingly  fast  to  light  and  also 
very  good  in  other  properties  of 
fastness.  Because  of  its  good 
levelling  quality  it  serves  both  for 
greys  and  especially  as  a saddening 
product  for  all  mode  colours,  olives 
and  browns. 

When  dyeing  in  bright  copper 
vessels  by  the  after-chroming  me- 
thod, the  bath  should  first  be  charg- 
ed with  some  sulphocyanide  of 
ammonia  before  adding  the  dyestuff. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 — Unsatisfactory. 


see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66  —75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


31 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 


by  the 
Chromate 
Process 


To  be 


Loose 

Wool 


Stub- 

bing 


Yarn 


41 


Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B pat. 

3%  4°/o 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process. 
Dyeings  produced  on  chromed  wool  or  by 
the  after-chroming  method  turn  out  a 
trace  more  bluish. 


Good 
In  light 
and 

medium 
shades.  In 
deep 
shades  a 
light  after- 
chroming 
is 

required 


Good 


42 


Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 

pat. 

1,5  % 3 °/o 


Good 


Same  as  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B. 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


3-4 


Very 

good 


43 


Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G pat. 

1,5  o/o  3 °/o 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 
The  same  shades  are  obtained  on  chromed 
wool  and  when  dyeing  by  the  chromate 
process.  ___ 


44 


Azo  Chrome  Blue  T 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


3-4 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good.: 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties,; 


32 


Hats 


Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 


Remarks 


1 


3-4 


Anthracene  Chromate  Oreen  B 
possesses  very  good  fastness  to 
light  and  is  excellently  suited  for 
the  production  of  green , olive  and 
mode  shades.  It  is  especially  used 
for  piece-dyeing  and  for  stubbing, 
but  is  less  suitable  for  dyeing  loose 
wool  and  yarn. 


When  dyed  in  copper  vessels  by 
the  after-chroming  method,  the  bath 
should  first  be  charged  with  some 
sulphocyanide  of  ammonia. 


This  brand  is  still  faster  to 
light  than  Anthracene  Chromate 
Oreen  B and  also  superior  in 
levelling  quality.  Therefore  it  may 
be  used  on  any  hind  of  wool  ma- 
terial both  for  the  production  of 
greens,  and  as  shading  product  for 
olives  and  mode  colours. 


4 


4 


When  dyed  in  copper  vessels  by 
the  after-chroming  method,  the  bath 
should  first  be  charged  with  some 
sulphocyanide  of  ammonia. 


Alizarine  Brilliant  Oreen  O 
possesses  eminent  fastness  to  light 
and  alkalies,  and  is  excellent  for 
dyeing  self-shades  and  also  as  a 
shading  product  for  greenish  mode 
colours,  olives,  etc. 


Alizarine  Brilliant  Oreen  SE 


possesses  the  same  properties,  but 


2 


yields  somewhat  more  covered 
shades. 


Particularly  well  suited  for 
cheap,  fast  blues  on  piece-goods ; 
it  leaves  cotton  effects  unstained 
and  silk  shots  nearly  so.  For  heavy 
milling  it  is  not  applicable,  but  it 
is  very  useful  for  dyeing  yarn,  etc. 
fast  to  washing  or  to  light  milling. 

Azo  Chrome  Blue  TB  is  some- 
what faster  to  washing  and  milling. 
The  greener  “AI:>  brand  also  serves 
for  modes,  browns  and  olives  on 
pieces,  and  particularly  well  for 
producing  solid  shades  on  goods 
containing  a shoddy  filling. 


66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


33 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


45 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F pat. 

3 °/o  6«/o 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 


flG 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B  pat. 

3 ®/o  6 o/o  , • ' 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


by  the 
After- 

chroming  . „ 
Process  Process 


by  the 
Chromate 


Not 

suitable 


Dyed  by  the  after-chromingmethod. 


47 


Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF 

30/0  5,5% 


Dyed  by  the  after-chromingprocess. 
On  chromed  wool  and  by  the  chromate 
process  the  same  shade  is  obtained. 


Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSFB  pat. 

3 % 5,5  0/0 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Not 

suitable 


Loose  Slub- 
Wool  bing 


To  be 


— Onnri. 


* 4 = Very  good.  S ^ 

For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 


for  Wool. 


used  for 

* 

1 Piece- 
| Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 

Cotton  Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

Remarks 

4 

to 

1 

CO 

1 

3-4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

Very  generally  admitted  for 
military  cloth.  Its  brilliant,  bluish 
black  shade  cannot  be  produced 
exactly  with  any  other  black. 
Excellently  suited  for  machine- 
dyeing, does  not  foam,  and  may 
be  dyed  in  copper  or  iron  vessels. 
It  possesses  good  fastness  to 
stoving  and  is  suited  for  cross- 
dyeing. Calcareous  water  should 
not  be  used  or  should  be  corrected 
with  oxalate  of  ammonia. 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  FE 
differs  from  the  F brand  only  by 
its  more  covered  shade. 

4 

3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

Yields  a bluish  black  with  a 
greenish  cast  and  is  chiefly  used 
in  combination  with  other  blacks 
and  for  producing  dark  blue  and 
greenish  black  shades;  in  properties 
of  fastness  it  stands  on  a level  with 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  sur- 
passing the  latter  in  fastness  to 
potting,  thus  allowing  of  application 
even  if  high  demands  are  made 
regarding  fastness  to  potting. 

3—4 

to 

1 

CO 

1—2 

4 

4 

1 

CO 

3 

i—1 

1 

to 

Is  used  to  a large  extent  for 
the  dyeing  of  loose  wool  and  yarn, 
and  less  extensively  for  piece-goods. 
The  product  is  distinguished  by 
good  fastness  to  milling  and  light, 
and  ranks  with  the  best  dyestuffs 
also  in  point  of  fastness  to  cross- 
dyeing. 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSN  is 
another  equally  important  brand, 
yielding  somewhat  more  covered 
dyeings. 

4 

i 

to 

1 

CO 

1—2 

4 

4 

4 

3 

2 

In  its  behaviour  the  product 
resembles  Anthracene  Acid  Black 
DSF,  but  it  is  superior  to  the  latter 
in  fastness  to  steaming. 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DNG 
belongs  to  the  same  group  and 
yields  a considerably  more  bluish 
black. 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SW  is 
used  particularly  for  the  dyeing 
of  loose  wool,  yielding  more  covered 
blacks  than  the  above-named  brands. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


- 35  - 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


by  the 
After- 
chroming 
Process 


by  the 
Chromate 
Process 


To  be 


Loose  Slub- 
Wool  bing 


Yarn 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P extra 

pat. 

3,75  o/o  7,5  % 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 


50 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PF  extra 

pat. 

3,75  o/o  7,5  °/o 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 
On  chromed  wool,  the  same  shade  will 
be  obtained. 


51 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PFB  extra 

pat. 

3,75  o/o  v 7,5% 


Very 

good 


Same  as  Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PF 
extra. 


52 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PR  extra 

pat. 

3,75  o/o  7,5  % 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 


Not 

suitable 


Not 

suitable 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 
- 36  - 


for  Wool. 


used  fop  * 

Remarks 

| cloth  with 
: Piece-  Effect  Threads 
Goods  of 

Cotton  Silk 

1 Knit  1 Ma* 
Shod-  1 Chine 

dv  ting  1 Dye- 

°y  Yarn  ing 

| Vigou- 
TT  , reux- 

Hats  1 Print- 
I ing 

3 

3 

2 

4 

4 

4 

2 

4 

The  products  of  the  Anthracene 
Chrome  Black  “ P ” series  have  been 
adopted  extensively , chiefly  for 
producing  dyeings  fast  to  milling 
and  potting  on  loose  wool '<>  yarns 
and  slubbing.  Such  dyeings  possess 
also  very  good  fastness  to  acids, 
and  are  therefore  used  for  goods  to 
be  cross-dyed. 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P 
extra  is  likewise  used  extensively 
for  Yigoureux  Printing. 

3-4 

3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

2 

2 

Possesses  the  same  properties 
as  the  “P  extra”  brand,  differing 
from  the  same  only  by  its  somewhat 
more  covered  and  deeper  shade. 
Its  scope  of  application  is  the 
same;  for  Yigoureux  Printing,  “P 
extra”  is  given  the  preference. 

4 

3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

i 2 

2 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PFB 
extra  possesses  a somewhat  more 
purplish  shade  than  P extra,  sur- 
passing the  latter  in  point  of  fast- 
ness to  light. 

A further  brand  of  the  same 
group  is  Anthracene  Chrome  Black 
PFBB  extra  which  possesses  a 
somewhat  more  bluish  shade. 

3 

3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

2 

3 

Behaves  in  properties  of  fast- 
ness exactly  like  Anthracene  Chrome 
Black  P extra,  compared  with  which 
it  is  of  a more  reddish  shade,  being 
on  this  account  especially  well  suit- 
ed for  producing  exceptionally  deep 
blacks. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


37 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


May  be  dyed 


by  the 


Chromed 

Wool 


After- 

chroming 

Process 


by  the 


Chromate 

Process 


To  be 


Loose  Slub- 


Wool  ! bing 


Yarn 


53 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra 

pat. 

3,75  %>  7,5  °/o 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 


54 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPN  extra 

pat. 

3.75  °/o  7.5  %. 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method. 


Not 

suitable 


3-4 


55 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P PS  extra 

pat. 

3,75  o/o  7,5  °/o 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  method; 
on  chromed  wool  the  same  shade  is 
obtained. 


56 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  KM 

pat. 

3 o/o  , 6 o/o 


Dyed  by  the  after-chromingmethod. 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


Not 

suitable 


* 4 = Very  good.  3=  Good. 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling,  and  other  properties, 
- 38  - 


for  Wool. 


used  for 

(S 

• 

Piece- 

Goods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux 

Print- 

ing 

Remarks 

4 

3-4 

2 

4 

4 

4 

3 

2 

Belongs  to  a new  group  of 
dyestuffs  fast  to  milling  and  potting, 
and  is  distinguished  for  specially 
good  levelling  properties  in  addition 
to  its  eminent  fastness  to  light. 
It  is  used  not  only  for  blacks  and 
bluish  blacks,  but  also  for  shading 
medium  and  dark  mode  colours.  It 
yields  excellent  results  in  machine- 
dyeing. 

4 

4 

CO 

1 

<M 

4 

4 

4 

3—4 

4 

Both  products  in  properties  of 
fastness  behave  like  Anthracene 
Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  their 
shades  being  slightly  brighter  and 
bluer . , 

4 

4 

2-3 

4 

4 

4 

3 

3 

Both  brands  are  especially  well 
suited  also  for  piece-dyeing  in  the 
production  of  dyeings  fast  to  mil- 
ling and  perspiration ; they  leave 
cotton  effects  completely  unstained. 

4 

3 

1 

4 

4 

4 

3 

2 

Yields  a full,  bloomy  black  with 
a bluish  cast,  of  very  good  fastness 
to  light,  milling,  and  steaming 
which  also  answers  most  require- 
ments for  fastness  to  potting ; it  is 
used  chiefly  for  dyeing  stubbing, 
loose  wool  and  yarn,  but  is  likewise 
very  well  suited  for  piece-dyeing. 

Somewhat  more  purplish  blacks 
are  obtained  with  Anthracene 

Chrome  Black  KR  which  possesses 
the  same  properties,  whereas  the 
KBB  brand  deserves  the  preference 
for  producing  bluish  blacks. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


39 


Chrome  Colours 


Dyestuff 


57 


Anthracene  Acid  Black  ST  pat. 

3 o/o  6 o/o 


May  be  dyed 


on 

Chromed 

Wool 


After-  b>-  *he 

chroming  ! Chromate 


Dyed  by  the  after-chromingmethod. 


58 


Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR  pat. 


Dyed  by  the  after-chromingprocess. 


59 


Anthracene  Acid  Black  SAS  pat. 

2 % 4 o/o. 


Very 

good 


Very 

good 


Dyed  by  the  after-chroming  process. 


60 


Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW 

pat. 

3o/o 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


Good 


Dyed  by  the  chromate  process.  After- 
chromed  dyeings  are  slightly  more  bluish. 


Not 

suitable 


Not 

suitable 


Not 

suitable 


Very 

good 


To  h 


Loose 

Wool 


2-3 


3-4 


Stub- 


bing 


2-3 


3- 


* 4 = Very  good.  3 = Goo 
For  full  particulars  of  fastness  to  light  and  milling  and  other  property 


40 


’iece- 

ioods 

Cloth  with 
Effect  Threads 
of 

Cotton  | Silk 

Shod- 

dy 

Knit- 

ting 

Yarn 

Ma- 

chine 

Dye- 

ing 

Hats 

Vigou- 

reux- 

Print- 

ing 

Remarks 

: 4 

4 

4 

2 

3 

4 

3-4 

3 

Anthracene  Acid  BlacTc  ST  is 
chiefly  used  for  piece-dyeing,  yield- 
ing bluish  black  dyeings  of  good 
fastness  to  light,  alkalies,  steaming, 
and  perspiration.  It  offers  the  ad- 
vantage of  leaving  both  cotton  and 
silk  effect  threads  completely  un- 
stained. 

A somewhat  more  reddish  and 
deeper  brand  is  Anthracene  Acid 
Black  SRT. 

4 

3-4 

2 

3-4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

The  product  is  dyed  straight 
with  sulphuric  acid,  differing  in 
this  respect  from,  the  other  blacks. 
It  levels  very  well,  possesses  very 
good  fastness  to  milling  and  light, 
and  is  used  in  the  first  place  for 
dyeing  stubbing,  yarn  and  piece- 
goods. 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR  yields 
a bluish  black;  Anthracene  Acid 
Black  SRG  dyes  more  greenish 
blacks,  whereas  Anthracene  Acid 
Black  SRT,  as  above  stated,  yields 
more  covered  blacks. 

3 

3 

1 

4 

3 

4 

2 

3 

Yields  a very  bright,  greenish 
black.  Special  brand  for  dyeing 
coloured  carbonised  shoddy.  It 
penetrates  exceedingly  well  and  may 
be  dyed  in  a very  strongly  acid  bath ; 
carbonised  goods  need  not  be  neu- 
tralised. Is  good  to  milling,  and 
very  cheap  owing  to  its  simple  and 
reliable  method  of  dyeing. 

The  brands  SASG,  SASN  and 
SASB  are  also  useful  for  dyeing 
carbonised,  coloured  shoddy. 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  1J/65J 
is  another  important  brand,  fast  to 
milling,  for  dyeing  shoddy. 

4 

4 

4 

3 

3-4 

4 

3 

3 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW 
is  especially  well  adapted  for  dyeing 
piece-goods  containing  silk  effects. 
Because  of  its  excellent  fastness  to 
light  and  its  good  levelling  quality 
it  may  be  used  both  for  blacks  and 
greys,  and  as  a shading  product  for 
mode  colours,  browns  etc. 

2 = Satisfactory.  1 = Unsatisfactory. 

see  our  book  on  “Wool  Dyeing”,  pages  66—75,  and  the  Supplements  thereto. 


41 


-m 
1 


I 


- 


I 


■ 

■ 


Dyestuffs 

for  the 

Production  of  the  Various  Shades 

- for 

A.  Loose  Wool  (Pages  45-54) 

B.  Slubbing  and  Yarn  (Pages  55-65) 

C.  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths  (Pages  66-76) 

D.  Piece-Dyeing  (Pages  77-90) 

E.  Machine-Dyeing  (Pages  91-98) 

F.  Shoddy  (Pages  99-109) 

G.  Vigoureux  Printing  (Pages  110  117) 

H.  Hat  Dyeing  (Pages  118-126). 


A.  Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool 


Grey  and  Mode  Shades.* 

a)  For  very  light  Shades,  best  Levelling: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D.  SWN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG,  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  3G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  D 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Brown  D 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

b)  For  Medium  and  Deep  Shades: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  given  under  a)  1.  and 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  F,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


45 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  given  under  a)  2.  and 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG,  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Bed  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  given  under  a)  3.  and 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Bed  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE,  Brilliant  Milling 
Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool  Red  B. 


46 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


Brown  and  Olive.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN,  SWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  BN,  C,  B,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Bed  A,  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  G,  F,  B 
x\nthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  EB,  WS,  WG,  3G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Bed  Y 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


47 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  N,  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WG,  WS 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  EB,  WG,  WS 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Wool  Red  B. 


48 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


Red,  Orange  and  Claret.* 

a)  For  Madder  Shades  on  Military  Cloths: 

To  be  dyed  with  subsequent  chroming: 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F 
or 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G. 


b)  For  other  Reds  or  Oranges  and  Clarets  with  best  possible  Fastness: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Red:  Diamine  Fast  Red  F 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

Orange:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN,  C,  R 

Claret:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 

Red:  Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 

Anthracene  Chromate  Red  6R 

Orange:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG,  M 

Claret:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 


3.  Chromed  Wool: 

The  same  dyestuffs  as  indicated  for  the 
After-Chroming  Process. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


49 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


c)  For  bright  Reds  for  Shots,  Stripes,  etc.: 

1.  To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath: 

With  good  fastness  to  milling  next  to  wool  and  cotton 


and  fast  to  stoving: 

Milling  Red  G 

Rhodamine  B (for  pink  shades) 
shaded  if  necessary  with 
Milling  Yellow  0 
or 

Formyl  Violet  S4B. 


With  good  fastness  to  milling  next  to  wool: 

Wool  Red  B 

shaded  if  necessary  as  indicated  above. 

2.  To  be  dyed  in  a neutral  bath:** 

With  good  fastness  to  milling  next  to  wool: 

Diamine  Scarlet  B,  3Bf 
Diamine  Purpurine  Bf,  Vf,  3Bf 
Diamine  Bordeaux  B,  Sf 
shaded  if  necessary  with 
Milling  Yellow  Of  or 
Diamine  Yellow  CP.f 

The  dyestuffs  marked  t are  fast  to  stoving. 

d)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  C. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow,  all  brands,  Formyl  Violet 
S4B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B,  Anthracene 
Chromate  Violet  XB,  Anthracene  Acid  Blue  RR 
(the  latter  only  on  chromed  wool). 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  6 and  13. 


50 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


Yellow  and  Green.* 


a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  GG  (fixed  with 
chromium  fluoride) 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  C,  R. 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB,  F 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  C,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M,  GG,  KL 

Green:  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


51 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  C,  R 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BW  extra 
Anthracene  Yellow  C,  BN,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 

b)  For  particularly  bright  Shades: 

Tobe  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Yellow:  Milling  Yellow  0 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
in  combination  if  necessary  with 
Milling  Yellow  O. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  C 

Green: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  C 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB,  F 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Formyl  Blue  B. 

Dyeings  of  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B are  turner! 
a little  paler  by  a severe  alkaline  treatment,  the 
original  shade  returning  however  on  souring  off 
subsequently. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939). 
page  6. 


52 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


Blue  and  Violet.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  FR,  BB,  G,  R,  B 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra,  BW  extra. 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  RR.  [G,  R 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  MGG,  MR 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

1.  After-Cliroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PBB,  F 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DNG,  SBB 
and 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B. 

2.  To  be  dyed  direct  with  the  addition  of 

acetate  of  ammonia:  ** 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra,  5RN,  GN. 

c)  For  particularly  brilliant  light  Blues  and  Violets: 

To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B. 

d)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

To  be  dyed  with  subsequent  chroming: 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  G,  BB. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Blue  B,  Tetra 
Cyanole  A,  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Formyl 
Violet  S4B— 10B,  Wool  Red  B. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  6 and  8. 


53 


Dyestuffs  for  Loose  Wool. 


Black.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling,  Potting  and  Light: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PPN  extra, 
PPS  extra,  P extra,  PF  extra,  PFB  extra, 
PFB  extra,  PB  extra,  PFBB  extra,  5B. 

The  “PP”  brands  are  eminently  fast  to  light. 

b)  With  very  good  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  FB,  KM,  PBB 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DSN,  DSFB,  DNG. 

c)  For  Goods  to  be  Cross-Dyed: 

After-Chroming  Process:, 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P extra,  PF  extra, 
PFB  extra 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  5B 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DSN. 

d)  For  light  Milling  (with  good  Fastness  to  Washing). 

To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Alphanol  Black  B,  BG,  3B,  3BN. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow,  all  brands,  Anthracene  Acid 
Brown  G,  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF 
extra,  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE,  An- 
thracene Chrome  Bed  A,  Anthracene  Chrome 
Violet  B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  Anthra- 
cene Acid  Blue  EB,  ER; 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Violet  S4B — 10B, 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Milling  Yellow  0, 
Wool  Red  B (the  last-mentioned  dyestuffs  also 
for  acid-dyed  Blacks). 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing’’,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 

page  6. 


54 


B.  Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn 


Grey  and  Mode  Shades.* 

a)  For  very  light  Shades,  best  Levelling: 

1.  After-ChromingProcess: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG,  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  D 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  MGG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

b)  For  medium  and  deep  Shades: 

1.  After-ChromingProcess: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  given  under  a)  1 and 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  F,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


55 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  given  under  a)  2 and 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS,  WG,  3G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  MGG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  given  under  a)  3 and 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE,  Brilliant 
Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool 
Red  B. 


56 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


Brown  and  Olive.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN,  SWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  C,  R,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  G,  F,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS, 

WG,  3G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  GG,  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  MGG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


57 


Dyestuffs  for  Slubblng  and  Yarn. 


b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G,  N,  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  C,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Wool  Red  B,  Diamine  Fast  Red  F. 


58 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


Red,  Orange  and  Claret.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Red:  Diamine  Fast  Red  F 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

Orange:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN,  C,  R 

Claret:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Red:  Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y,  6R 

Orange:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M,  KL 

Claret:  The  above  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

The  same  dyestuffs  as  indicated  for  the 
After-Chroming  Process. 

b)  For  bright  Reds  for  effects,  stripes,  etc.: 

1.  To  be  dyedin  an  acid  bath:** 

With  good  fastness  to  milling  next  to  wool  and  cotton 
and  to  stoving: 

Milling  Red  G 

Rhodamine  B (for  pink  shades) 
shaded  if  necessary  with 

Milling  Yellow  0,  or 
Formyl  Violet  S4B. 

With  good  fastness  to  milling  next  to  wool: 

Wool  Red  B 

shaded  if  necessary  as  indicated  above. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  IT  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


59 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


2.  To  be  dyed  in  a neutral  bath: 

With  good  fastness  to  milling  next  to  wool: 

Diamine  Scarlet  B,  3Bf 
Diamine  Purpurine  Bf,  Vt,  3Bf 
Diamine  Bordeaux  B,  St 
shaded  if  necessary  with 

Milling  Yellow  Of  or 
Diamine  Yellow  CPf. 

The  dyestuffs  marked  -j-  are  fast  to  stoving. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross  Dyeing: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Bed  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  C. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow,  all  brands,  Formyl 
Violet  S4B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B, 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB,  Anthra- 
cene Acid  Blue  RR  (the  latter  only  on 
chromed  wool). 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  6 and  13. 


60 


Dyestuffs  for  Slubbing  and  Yarn. 


Yellow  and  Green.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  GG 

(fixed  with  chromium  fluoride) 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  C,  R. 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB,  F 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  PPC  extra. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M,  GG 


Green:  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  MGG 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Yellow  KL,  M 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


61 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  C,  R 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BW  extra 
Anthracene  Yellow  C,  BN,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 

b)  For  particularly  bright  Shades: 

To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Yellow:  Milling  Yellow  0 

Green:  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 

Tetra  Cyanole  A 
in  combination  with 
Milling  Yellow  0. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  C 

Green : 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB,  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole 
A,  Formyl  Blue  B. 

Dyeings  of  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B become 
a little  paler  by  a severe  alkaline  treatment,  the  ori- 
ginal shade  returning  however  on  souring  off  sub- 
sequently. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  IT  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


62 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


Blue  and  Violet.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  FR,  BB,  G,  R,  B 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra,  BW  extra, 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  RR.  [G,  R 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  MGG, 

RRW  extra 

Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Azo  Chrome  Blue  T,  TB 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PPS  extra, 

PBB,  F 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DNG,  SBB 
and 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B. 

2.  To  be  dyed  direct  with  the  addition  of 
acetate  of  ammonia:** 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra,  5RN,  GN. 

c)  For  particularly  bright,  pale  Shades  of  Blue  and  Violet: 

To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  6 and  8. 


63 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


d)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  G,  BB. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Blue  B,  Tetra 
Cyanole  A,  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Formyl 
Violet  S4B— 10B,  Wool  Red  B,  Anthracene 
Chrome  Red  A,  G,  Anthracene  Blue 
Black  BE. 


64 


Dyestuffs  for  Stubbing  and  Yarn. 


Black.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling,  Potting  and  Light: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PPN  extra, 
PPS  extra,  P extra,  PFB  extra,  PFR  extra, 
PR  extra,  PFBB  extra,  5B. 

The  “PP”  brands  are  eminently  fast  to  light. 

b)  With  very  good  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light,  and  good  Fastness 

to  Potting: 

To  be  dyed  with  subsequent  chroming: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  FR,  KM,  PBB 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DSN,  DSFB,  DNG. 

c)  For  light  milling,  with  good  fastness  to  washing,  particularly  well 

suited  for  knitting  yarns: 

To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Alphanol  Black  R,  BG,  3B,  3BN. 

d)  Fast  to  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P extra,  PF  extra, 
PFB  extra 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  5B 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DSN. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow,  all  brands,  Anthracene  Acid 
Brown  G,  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF 
extra,  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE, 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  Anthracene 
Chrome  Violet  B,  Anthracene  Chrome 
Blue  F,  Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER; 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Violet  S4B — 
10B,  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Milling 
Yellow  0,  Wool  Red  B (the  last-mentioned 
dyestuffs  also  for  acid-dyed  Blacks). 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939). 
page  6. 


65 


C.  Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other 
Uniform  Cloths. 


Military  and  other  uniform  cloths  are  nearly  always  dyed 
in  the  loose  wool.  For  such  material,  dyestuffs  of  particularly 
good  fastness  (to  milling,  light,  steaming  and  carbonising)  are 
taken  in  the  first  place  into  account. 

Cloth  for  facings,  on  the  other  hand,  is  usually  dyed  in  the 
piece;  for  such  material,  good  fastness  to  light,  water  and 
alkalies,  besides  good  penetration,  are  of  great  importance. 
Acid  Colours  are  the  most  frequently  used  for  such  purpose. 
Particulars  for  dyeing  facings  will  be  found  in  our  pattern  card 
No.  2708  and  in  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Volume  II,  pages 
97—110. 

For  uniform  cloths,  the  following  colours  and  mixtures 
come  mainly  into  consideration: 

Black  dyed  in  the  Loose  Wool. 

The  Black  required  for  producing  Marengo,  greyish  black 
and  bluish  black  mixture  cloths  (for  instance,  for  German 
military  trouserings  as  hitherto  used,  Austrian  infantry  over- 
coats, grey  mixture  cloths  for  railway  officials,  post  office 
employes,  etc.)  is  dyed  in  the  loose  wool  with 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  PPC  extra, 
PPN  extra,  PPS  extra, 

or,  with 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSN,  DSF,  DNG. 

Black  dyed  in  the  Piece.  * 

For  producing  very  fast  shades,  the  same  dyestuffs  are 
used  as  are  indicated  above  for  loose  wool;  the  method  of  appli- 
cation is  likewise  the  same,  the  dyeing  being  sometimes  carried 
out  on  white  goods  and  sometimes  also  on  goods  which  have 
been  bottomed  in  the  loose  wool  with  Indigo  MLB. 

The  afore-mentioned  dyestuffs  offer  the  advantage  of  excel- 
lent penetration,  and  cloths  dyed  therewith  in  the  piece  like 
those  dyed  in  the  wool  possess  eminent  fastness  to  light. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 


66 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


Blue  dyed  in  the  Loose  Wool.  * 

Blue  for  military  and  other  uniform  cloths  is  dyed  in 
the  loose  wool  both  for  solid  shades  and  for  mixtures  of  blue 
and  white  (grey  etc. ) . For  such  purposes  the  wool  is  sometimes 
dyed  with  Anthracene  Colours  direct,  and  sometimes  vat-dyed 
with  Indigo  MLB  and  then  dyed  with  the  dyestuffs  mentioned 
below.  The  following  dyestuffs  come  particularly  into  con- 
sideration: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  FR,  B,  BB,  G,  R 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BW  extra,  RRW  extra, 
R,  G,  BB. 

3.  Dyed  direct  with  the  Addition  of  Acetate 
of  Ammonia:** 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra,  5RN,  GN. 

Blue  dyed  in  the  Piece.  * 

For  dyeing  dark  blues  in  the  piece,  the  same  dyestuffs  are 
used  as  for  blue  on  loose  wool,  and  are  applied  in  the  same 
manner. 

Blue  piece-dyeings  are  likewise  frequently  bottomed  first 
with  Indigo,  usually  in  the  loose  wool,  the  saddening  or  topping 
being  then  carried  out  in  the  piece  with  the  above-mentioned 
dyestuffs. 

Dark  Green  and  Bluish  Green  dyed  in  the  Loose  Wool.  * 

Dark  green  and  bluish  green  military  and  other  uniform 
cloths  (for  instance  for  the  German  country  police  and  custom- 
house officers’  uniforms,  forestry  uniforms,  etc.)  are  dyed  almost 
without  exception  in  the  wool,  the  following  dyestuffs  being  used 
for  the  purpose: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  BB,  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Yellow  C,  GG,  BN 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  PPC  extra 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSN,  DSF. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3 and  5. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 


page  8. 


67 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


The  dark  green  and  bluish  green  shades  are  frequently 
also  produced  on  wool  dyed  previously  with  Indigo,  the  vat- 
dyed  wool  being  dyed  subsequently  with  the  following  dyestuffs: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  C,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G. 

3.  Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Milling  Yellow  0 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G. 

For  brightening  the  green  dyeings,  Brilliant  Milling 
Green  B or  Tetra  Cyanole  A are  used. 

Dark  Green  and  Bluish  Green  dyed  in  the  Piece.  * 

The  dyestuffs  mentioned  for  loose  wool  may  be  used  in 
like  manner  for  piece  dyeing,  Anthracene  Yellow  BN  being 
given  the  preference  over  Anthracene  Yellow  C. 

In  the  case  also  of  goods  to  be  dyed  in  the  piece,  the  loose 
wool  is  frequently  bottomed  in  the  Indigo  vat,  and  after  weaving 
and  milling,  the  pieces  are  topped  with  Milling  Yellow  0, 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  or  with  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  F 
and  Anthracene  Yellow  BN  as  indicated  above. 

On  the  other  hand,  green  on  piece-goods  is  frequently  also 
dyed  on  chromed  wool,  in  which  case  the  following  dyestuffs 
are  used: 

Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BW  extra,  G 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing’’,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 


page  G. 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


Dark  Olive  dyed  in  the  Loose  Wool  or  in  the  Piece.* 

Dark  olives  are  produced  with  the  same  dyestuffs  as  dark 
greens  and  bluish  greens,  with  the  addition  of  Anthracene 
Chrome  Brown  D or  Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 


Brown  dyed  in  the  Loose  Wool.  * 

Plain  browns  and  browns  for  various  mixtures  are  dyed 
in  the  loose  wool.  The  following  dyestuffs  come  into  con- 
sideration for  the  purpose: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN,  SWN,  A 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Yellow  C,  GG,  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  BB,  R,  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M,  KL,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XB. 


Browns  dyed  in  the  Piece.  * 

The  same  dyestuffs  are  used  for  this  purpose  as  for  loose 
wool,  the  following  however  being  particularly  favoured  owing 
to  their  very  good  penetrating  properties: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  BB,  G,  B 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  5 and  7. 


69 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


Madder  Red  dyed  in  the  Loose  Wool.  * 

For  Madder  Red  shades  the  following  dyestuffs  are  used: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F (fixed  with  bichrome  or 
chromium  fluoride) 
shaded  with 

Anthracene  Yellow  C,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F or 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
or 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G. 

The  colours  obtained  with  Diamine  Fast  Red  F or  An- 
thracene Chrome  Red  G are  distinguished  from  all  other 
madder  red  shades  by  their  superior  fastness  to  alkalies  and 
carbonising,  the  much  simpler  method  of  production  and  the 
better  condition  of  the  wool  for  milling. 


Madder  Red  dyed  in  the  Piece.  * 

The  same  dyestuffs  are  used  for  piece-goods  as  for  loose 
wool;  for  shading  towards  yellow,  Anthracene  Yellow  BN  is 
however  given  the  preference. 

Red  Fezzes.  * 

This  head-dress  worn  in  the  East  and  adopted  for  various 
Colonial  armies  is  dyed  with  the  following  dyestuffs: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process:* 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F. 

2.  In  a neutral  bath:** 

Diamine  Scarlet  B,  3B 
Diamine  Fast  Red  F. 

3.  In  an  acid  bath:** 

Wool  Red  B. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 

pages  6 and  13. 


70 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


“Field  Grey”  (Military  Grey). 

These  shades  have  gained  very  great  importance  in  recent 
years  owing  to  the  general  desire  to  introduce  uniforms  which 
are  as  little  visible  as  possible  in  the  field.  For  such  purpose 
‘ Field  Grey”  is  eminently  suited,  and  on  account  of  its  flat  shade 
it  offers  the  additional  great  advantage  of  being  much  less 
sensitive  to  dust  and  dirt  than  the  old  military  shades. 


‘‘Field  Grey”  Trouserings  for  the  German  Army 

are  produced  on  a pale  blue  Indigo  bottom,  according  to  the 
after-chroming  process,  * with 

1 % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 

0,35  % Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 
0,08  % Anthracene  Yellow  C 

1 % bichrome. 

The  regulation  shade  is  obtained  by  mixing 

60  parts  of  dyed  wool  with 
40  parts  of  white  wool. 


“Field  Grey”  Coat  Cloth  for  the  German  Army 
is  produced  as  follows: 

The  colour  is  produced  on  a lighter  Indigo  bottom  than  the 
shade  for  the  trouserings,  according  to  the  after-chroming 
method*,  with 

0,74  % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
0,08  % Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 
0,1  % Anthracene  Yellow  C 

1 % bichrome. 

The  regulation  shade  is  obtained  by  mixing 

65  parts  of  dyed  wool  with 
35  parts  of  white  wool. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 


71 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


“Field  Grey”  Shades  of  unsurpassed  Fastness  to  Light. 

The  identical  shades  of  “Field  Grey”  as  described  on  the 
previous  page  may  be  obtained  with  very  much  better  fastness 
to  light  by  using  mixing  wool  tinted  greenish  with  metallic  salts 
instead  of  white  mixing  wool. 

This  mixing  wool  stained  with  metallic  salts  possesses 
absolute  fastness  to  light  and  is  not  in  any  way  affected  by 
exposure  lasting  for  months  or  even  years. 

We  have  taken  out  patents  or  applied  for  patents  for 
producing  such  mixtures  in  all  the  industrial  countries. 
Producing  greenish  Mixing  Wool. 

Charge  the  bath  with 

3 — 3 % % bichrome 

% sulphate  of  copper 
6 % lactic  acid  50  % 

1 % sulphuric  acid; 

enter  the  scoured  wool  at  70°  C.  (160  deg.  F.),  raise  to  the  boil, 
and  boil  for  % to  1 hour;  when  the  wool,  which  is  at  first 
coloured  yellow,  has  assumed  a green  shade  and  the  liquor  is 
perfectly  clear,  throw  out,  rinse,  and  dry. 

New  “Field  Grey”  Trouserings  corresponding 
to  the  German  Standard  Pattern. 

On  a light  blue  Indigo  Bottom: 

After-Chroming  Process:* 

2,8  % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 
0,1  % Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
0,3  % Anthracene  Yellow  GG 
2 % bichrome. 

The  regulation  shade  is  obtained  by  mixing 
approx.  50  parts  of  dyed  wool  with 

,,  50  parts  of  the  above-mentioned  greenish 

mixing  wool. 

New  “Field  Grey”  Coat  Cloth  corresponding  to 
the  German  Standard  Pattern. 

On  a light  blue  Indigo  Bottom: 

After-Chroming  Process:* 

2,8  % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 
0,3  % Anthracene  Yellow  GG 
2 % bichrome. 

The  regulation  shade  is  obtained  by  mixing 
approx.  50  parts  of  dyed  wool 

,,  50  parts  of  greenish  mixing  wool. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 


72 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


‘Field  Grey”  Military  Cloth  for  the  Italian  Army. 

This  is  produced  with  greenish  mixing  wool  according  to 
our  patented  process  and  is  a little  more  greenish  in  tone  than 
the  German  “Field  Grey”.  It  is  dyed  as  follows: 

a)  On  a dark  Indigo  Bottom. 

After  - Chroming  Method:  * 

1,1  % Anthracene  Yellow  C 

1.5  % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
1,75  % bichrome. 

b)  On  a pale  Indigo  Bottom. 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Method:  * 

3.5  % Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
0,9  % Anthracene  Yellow  C 

2.5  % bichrome. 

• 

The  regulation  shade  is  obtained  by  mixing 

45  parts  of  dyed  wool  with 
55  parts  of  the  greenish  mixing  wool. 


The  colours  produced  in  this  manner  with  stained  mixing 
wool  are  considerably  superior,  both  in  fastness  to  light  and  in 
their  behaviour  to  carbonising,  to  the  “Field  Grey”  produced 
hitherto  by  the  ordinary  method. 

An  exposure  of  a garment  for  four  months  to  every  kind 
of  weather  has  not  had  the  slightest  effect  on  the  colour,  whereas 
materials  produced  with  white  wool  had  suffered  very  much  at 
the  end  of  half  that  time  already. 

By  modifying  the  shade  of  the  wool  or  of  the  mixing 
wool  tinted  with  metallic  salts,  the  shades  may  be  varied  at 
will;  as  the  case  may  demand,  mixing  wool  dyed  a drab  shade 
like  that  for  Khaki  (see  page  74)  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
green  mixing  wool. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 


73 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


Khaki. 

In  addition  to  “Field  Grey”,  Khaki  shades  principally 
have  attained  to  great  importance  during  recent  years  owing  to 
their  being  very  little  noticeable  in  the  field.  Khaki  is  some- 
times dyed  as  a uni-colour,  but  more  often  produced  by  mixing. 

The  latter  again  is  produced  sometimes  by  mixing  only 
one  colour  with  white,  and  sometimes  two,  three  or  even  more 
colours  with  white;  for  the  bottom  shades,  a pale  yellowish 
brown,  further  a gold,  dark  brown,  and  blue  are  used. 

The  English  Khaki  for  blouses,  for  instance,  is  produced 
with  gold,  brown  and  light  blue  dyeings  mixed  with  white,  the 
following  being  the  proportions: 

53  parts  gold  4 K parts  light  blue 

17  parts  brown  25/4  parts  white. 

The  colours  are  produced  on  white  wool  with  the  follow- 
ing quantities  of  colouring  matters: 

A f t e r - G h r o m i n g Process:* 


A. 

Gold. 

0,4  % 

Anthracene 

Chrome 

Brown 

0,3  % 

Anthracene 

Chrome 

Blue  F 

1 % 

Anthracene 

Yellow 

C 

1 % 

bichrome. 

B. 

Brown. 

2,1  % 

Anthracene 

Chrome 

Brown 

1,25  % 

Anthracene 

Chrome 

Blue  F 

1,8  % 

Anthracene 

Yellow 

C 

3 % 

bichrome. 

C. 

Light  Blue. 

1 % 

Anthracene 

Chrome 

Blue  F 

0,75  % bichrome. 

Khaki  dyeings  of  considerably  better  fastness  to 
light  may  be  obtained  in  the  same  manner  as  afore  described 
for  “Field  Grey”  by  using  wool  tinted  a drab  shade  with  metallic 
salts  instead  of  white  mixing  wool. 

Production  of  Drab-Coloured  Mixing  Wool. 
Charge  the  bath  with 

3 — 3/4  % bichrome 

0,5  % sulphate  of  copper 
6 % lactic  acid  50  % 

1 % sulphuric  acid; 

enter  the  scoured  wool  at  70°  C.  (160  deg.  F.),  raise  to  the  boil, 
and  boil  for  % to  1 hour;  then  cool  off,  add 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 


74 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


2 % hyposulphite  of  soda, 
and  boil  for  another  K hour;  then  rinse,  and  dry. 

Similar  colours  may  be  obtained  by  boiling  first  with 
2 % chrome  alum 

2 % sulphate  of  copper 

3 % oxalic  acid 
and  subsequently  adding 

2 % hyposulphite  of  soda. 

In  order  to  produce  the  English  Khaki,  for  instance,  on 
blouses  with  much  better  fastness  to  light,  the  gold  and  brown 
should  be  dyed  considerably  darker,  the  afore-described  drab- 
coloured  mixing  wool  being  used  in  place  of  white  wool  in  order 
to  attain  the  shade  of  the  mixture  in  question. 

The  following  are  the  quantities  to  be  used  for  the  purpose: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process:* 

A.  Dark  Gold. 

0,6  % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
0,5  % Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F 

2 % Anthracene  Yellow  C 

2 % bichrome. 

B.  Dark  Brown: 

4,5  % Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 

1,3  % Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F 

2,25  % Anthracene  Yellow  C 

3 % bichrome. 

C.  Light  Blue: 

1 % Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F 
0,75  % bichrome. 

2.  Chromate  Process:  * 

A.  Dark  Gold. 

0,4  % Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
0,2  % Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 

2 % Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 

1.3  % bichrome. 

B.  Dark  Brown. 

2.4  % Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 

2 % Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  M 

2,2  % bichrome. 

C.  Light  Blue. 

1 % Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 

0,1  % Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 
0,6  % bichrome. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  5 and  7. 


75 


Dyestuffs  for  Military  and  other  Uniform  Cloths. 


The  proportions  used  for  the  mixture  fast  to  light  are: 

43  parts  Dark  Gold  I 

10  Dark  Brown  dyed  by  tbe 

or  the  chromate  process. 

5 „ Pale  Blue  J 

42  ,,  Drab-coloured  mixing  wool. 

By  mixing  other  ground  colours  with  the  drab-coloured 
mixing  wool,  numerous  other  mixtures  of  eminent  fastness,  very 
little  visible  in  the  field,  may  be  obtained. 

Khaki  dyed  in  the  Piece. 

For  Khaki  shades  produced  in  the  piece,  the  following 
dyestuffs  are  used: 

1.  Dyed  by  the  After-Chroming  Process  or 
on  Chromed  Wool:* 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE,  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F. 

2.  Dyed  by  the  Chromate  Process:  * 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M,  FL 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

In  some  special  cases  Diamine  Colours  are  used  for 
dyeing  Khaki  shades  in  the  piece,  the  following  in  particular: 

Dyed  in  a neutral  bath:  ** 

Diamine  Fast  Yellow  FF 
Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Diamine  Fast  Blue  G. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  13. 


76 


D.  Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing 


Grey  and  Mode  Shades.* 

a)  For  very  pale  Shades,  with  best  Levelling: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

2.  Aft er - Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  D. 

b)  For  Medium  and  Deep  Shades: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  indicated  under  a)  1.  and 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


77 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing, 


2.  After -Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  indicated  under  a)  2 and 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra  (for 
saddening  very  deep  shades  of  grey). 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  indicated  under  a)  3.  and 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  WS,  WG,  3G,  ER 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 

c)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Cotton  Effects: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE. 

2.  After -Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R,  B 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 


78 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


d)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Silk  Effects: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  WS 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Alizarine  Brillant  Green  G. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE,  Tetra  Cyanole 
A,  Wool  Red  B. 

For  shading  piece-goods  with  silk  effects: 

Fast  Acid  Yellow  TL,  Acid  Yellow  AT,  Orange 
GG,  Lanafuchsine  SG,  Brilliant  Lanafuch- 
sine  SL,  Cyanole  extra. 


79 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


Brown  and  Olive.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN,  SWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  G,  F,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PPS 
extra  (for  very  deep  shades). 


2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS,  WG, 

[3G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 


For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G,  N,  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Antracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS,  WG, 

[3G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW. 

c)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Cotton  Effects: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R,  B 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 

d)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Silk  Effects: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B. 


81 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool  Red  B. 

For  shading  piece-goods  with  silk  effects: 

Fast  Acid  Yellow  TL,  Acid  Yellow  AT,  Lana- 
fuchsine  SG,  Brilliant  Lanafuchsine  SL, 
Azo  Wool  Blue  C. 


82 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece- Dyeing. 


Red,  Orange  and  Claret  * 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness: 

1.  Dyed  by  the  After-Chroming  Process  or  on 
Chromed  Wool: 


Red  : 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  G 
Diamine  Fast  Red  F 

Orange: 

The  same  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN 

Claret: 

The  same  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromate  Process 


Red  : 

Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y,  6R 

Orange: 

The  same  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 

Claret: 

The  same  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

b)  For  particularly  bright  Shades: 

1.  Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 


Red  : 

Wool  Red  B 

Orange: 

Wool  Red  B shaded  with 
Milling  Yellow  0 

Claret: 

Wool  Red  B shaded  with 
Formyl  Violet  S4B—  10B. 

2.  Dyed  in  a neutral  bath:** 


Red  : 

Diamine  Scarlet  B,  3B 
Diamine  Purpurine  B,  V,  3B 

Orange: 

The  same  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Milling  Yellow  0 or 
Diamine  Yellow  CP 

Claret: 

Diamine  Bordeaux  B. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Voi.  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  6 and  13. 


83 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


c)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Cotton  Effects: 

1.  Dyed  by  the  A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process  or 
on  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN. 

2.  Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Wool  Red  B 
Milling  Yellow  0 
Formyl  Violet  S4B. 

d)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Silk  Effects: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG,  Milling  Yellow 
0,  Rosazeine  B,  Formyl  Violet  S4B — 10B, 
Brilliant  Milling  Bine  B,  Anthracene  Acid 
Blue  RR  (to  be  dyed  only  on  chromed  wool), 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  R,  Anthracene 
Chromate  Violet  XB. 

For  shading  piece-goods  with  silk  effects: 

Lanafuchsine  SG,  Naphtol  Red  C,  Orange  GG, 
Fast  Acid  Yellow  TL,  Acid  Yellow  AT,  Azo 
Wool  Violet  7R. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


84 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


Yellow  and  Green* 


a)  With  best  possible  fastness: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  GG  (fixed  with 

chromium  fluoride) 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB,  F 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE; 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra,  5B. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BW  extra, 
BB,  F 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
saddened,  if  necessary,  with 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


V 


85 


Dyestuff  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


3.  Chromate  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 


Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G. 


b)  For  particularly  bright  Shades: 

Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Yellow:  Milling  Yellow  0 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 

Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
or  combinations  of  these  dyestuffs. 


c)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Cotton  Effects: 

1.  Dyed  by  the  After-Chroming  Process  or 
on  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


86 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


3.  Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Milling  Yellow  0 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B. 

d)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Silk  Effects: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Formyl  Blue  B,  Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE. 
For  shading  piece-goods  with  silk  effects: 

Acid  Yellow  AT,  Acid  Green  extra  cone.,  Azo 
Wool  Blue  C. 


87 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


Blue  and  Violet.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra,  BW  extra, 
G,  R,  B,  BB,  F 

Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER,  EB,  RR 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  FR,  BB,  R,  B,  G 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  RRW  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

1.  Dyed  by  the  After-Chroming  Process: 

Azo  Chrome  Blue  T,  TB 
or  combinations  of: 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra,  F,  PBB 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR,  SBB 
and 

Formyl  Violet  S4B-  10B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A. 

2.  Dyed  direct  with  the  addition  of  acetate 
of  ammonia.  ** 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra,  5RN,  GN. 

c)  For  particularly  bright  Blues  and  Violets: 

To  he  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  6 and  8. 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


d)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Cotton  Effects: 

1.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R,  B 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER,  EB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  A ft  er - Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  FR,  R 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 
Azo  Chrome  Blue  T,  TB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
or  combinations  of 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR,  SBB 
and 

Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

4.  Dyed  direct  with  the  addition  of  acetate 
of  ammonia.  ** 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra,  5RN,  GN. 

e)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Silk  Effects: 

Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  R,  2298  J 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

f)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Blue  B,  For- 
myl Violet  S4B — 10B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool 
Red  B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

For  shading  piece-goods  with  silk  effects: 

Alizarine  Lanacyl  Blue  BB,  R,  Alizarine  Lana- 
cyl  Violet  B,  Cyanole  extra,  FF,  Azo  Wool 
Blue  C,  Azo  Wool  Violet  7R. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  8. 


89 


Dyestuffs  for  Piece-Dyeing. 


Blacks.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Light,  Steaming,  Alkalies  and 
Perspiration: 

After-Chroming  Method: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra,  PPC  extra, 
PPN  extra,  PFB  extra,  PFBB  extra,  P extra, 
PBB,  F,  5B,  KM. 

The  “pp”  and  “P”  brands  are  especially  fast  to  potting. 

b)  With  very  good  Fastness  to  Light,  Alkalies,  Perspiration  and 
Steaming: 

After  - Chroming  Method: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR,  SRG,  SRT,  ST, 
DSF,  DSN,  DSFB,  DNG. 

c)  With  good  Fastness  to  Light,  Alkalies  and  Perspiration: 

To  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath:  ** 

Alphanol  Black  BG,  R,  3B,  3BN,  KN. 

d)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Cotton  Effects: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPS  extra,  PPN  extra 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  ST,  SR,  SRT. 

e)  For  Piece-Goods  with  Silk  Effects: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  ST 

Chrome  Black  B for  Wool  and  Silk  Goods.  *** 

f)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  Anthracene  Acid 
Brown  G,  Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  Anthra- 
cene Chrome  Violet  B,  Anthracene  Chromate 
Green  KFF  extra,  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G, 
SE,  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  Anthracene 
Acid  Blue  EB,  ER,  Wool  Red  B,  Brilliant 
Milling  Blue  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Formyl 
Violet  S4B— 10B. 

For  shading  piece-goods  with  silk  effects: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  Anthracene  Chrome 
Violet  B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  Anthra- 
cene Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 

page  6. 

***  The  dyeing  of  Chrome  Black  B for  Wool  and  Silk  Goods  is  commenced 

with  formic  acid,  the  goods  being  after-chromed  in  a fresh  bath. 


90 


E.  Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing 

with  special  reference  to  the  dyeing  of  Cops  and 
Cross  Spools. 


Dyeing  of  Loose  Wool  and  Wool  Yarns  in  Dyeing  Machines. 

When  dyeing  loose  wool  and  yarns  in  apparatus,  care  has 
to  be  taken  that  the  material  is  not  pressed  down  too  hard;  the 
machines  which  are  best  suited  for  the  purpose  therefore  are 
those  in  which  the  wool  is  held  down  only  by  a cover  lying  on 
loosely  or  lightly  weighted.  In  the  dyeing  of  yarns,  special 
attention  has  likewise  to  be  paid  to  the  way  in  which  the  hanks 
are  placed  in  the  apparatus  to  avoid  the  formation  of  channels 
during  the  dyeing,  which  is  apt  to  cause  unevenness. 

The  importance  of  having  the  dyestuffs  in  a complete  state 
of  solution  has  likewise  very  carefully  to  be  borne  in  mind  in 
order  to  avoid  uneven  shades.  Boiling  condensed  water  is 
used  to  best  advantage  for  dissolving  the  dyestuffs,  tbe  solution 
being  added  to  the  dyebath  through  a fine  sieve  or  a piece  of 
cotton  cloth. 

Dyeing  of  Wool  Yarn  in  Form  of  Cops  or  Cross  Spools. 

In  the  following  tables  will  be  found  a list  of  dyestuffs 
suitable  for  dyeing  cops  and  cross  spools  by  both  the  spindle 
and  the  packing  system. 

Cops  and  cross  spools  are  usually  dyed  either  according 
to  the  after-chroming  or  the  chromate  process,  dyeing  on  a 
chrome  mordant  being  resorted  to  in  special  cases  only, 
for  instance,  for  the  production  of  bright  blues.  When 
dyeing  Greys,  Mode  Colours,  Browns  and  Olives  according 
to  the  after-chroming  process,  it  is  advisable  to  add  the 
amount  of  acid  requisite  for  dyeing  in  one  lot  at  the 
beginning  of  the  operation,  commencing  at  a low  temperature 

- 9i  - 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


and  raising  the  same  gradually  to  the  boil.  By  this  means 
the  subsequent  addition  of  acid,  which  is  the  most  frequent 
cause  of  unevenness,  may  be  obviated;  this  is  the  most  reliable 
way  of  obtaining  good,  even  shades.  The  chroming  is  always 
carried  out  to  best  advantage  in  a fresh  bath,  but  in  any  case 
the  liquor  should  be  cooled  down  to  50 — 60°  G.  (120 — 140  deg.  F.) 
before  adding  the  bichrome. 


92 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


Grey  and  Mode  Shades.* 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B; 
for  medium  and  deep  tones  also: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  D. 

Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE,  Brilliant 
Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool  Red  B. 


For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  5 and  7. 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


Brown  and  Olive.* 

1.  After- Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN,  SWN 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS, 

[WG,  3G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB 
Anthracene  Chromate  Black  STW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 

Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Wool  Red  B,  Diamine  Fast  Red  F. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  5 and  7. 


94 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


Red,  Orange  and  Claret.* 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Red:  Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

Orange:  The  above-named  dyestuffs  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN 

Claret:  The  above-named  dyestuffs  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Red:  Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 

Orange:  The  same,  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 

Claret:  The  same,  shaded  with 

Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

Dyestuff  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Formyl  Violet  S4B. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  5 and  7. 


95 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


Yellow  and  Green.* 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  GG  (fixed  with 

chromium  fluoride) 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or, 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or, 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE. 

Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Formyl  Blue  B. 

Dyeings  of  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B become  a 
little  paler  on  severe  alkaline  treatment,  the  original 
shade  returning  however  on  souring  off  subsequently. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  5 and  7. 


96 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


Blue  and  Violet.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  FR,  BB,  G 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 


2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra,  BW  extra, 

[G,  R 

Anthracene  Acid  Blue  RR. 


3.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 


b)  Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PPS  extra, 

PBB 

and 

Formyl  Violet  S4B 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A. 


c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  G,  BB. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Blue  B,  Tetra 
Cyanole  A,  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Formyl 
Violet  S4B — 10B,  Wool  Red  B,  Anthracene 
Chrome  Red  A,  Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


97 


Dyestuffs  for  Machine-Dyeing. 


Black.* 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Milling,  Potting  and  Light: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  PPN 
extra,  PPS  extra,  P extra,  PFB  extra,  5B. 

The  “pp”  brands  are  eminently  fast  to  light. 

b)  With  very  good  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light,  and  good  Fastness 
to  Potting: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE,  KM,  PBB 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF.  DSFB,  SB. 

Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  Anthracene  Acid 
Brown  G,  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF 
extra,  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE, 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  Anthracene 
Chrome  Blue  F. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 


98 


F.  Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy 


Grey  and  Mode  Shades.* 

a)  For  carbonised  material  which  has  not  been  neutralised: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  SBB,  SAS. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

b)  For  uncarbonised  (all-wool)  or  neutralised  material: 

1.  After - Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of  the  dyestuffs  indicated  under  a)  1 and 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 


For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  3G,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

The  same  dyestuffs  as  indicated  sub  a)  2. 

c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

Dyed  by  the  After -Chroming  Process: 
Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE,  Brilliant 
Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool  Red  B. 


100 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


Brown  and  Olive  Shades.* 

a)  For  carbonised  material  which  has  not  been  neutralised: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  BB,  G,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  SBB. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  B 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 

Anthracene  Yellow  C 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB,  R 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE; 

for  saddening  if  necessary: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 


b)For  uncarbonised  (all-wool)  or  neutralised  material: 

1.  After-Chroming  Pro  c ess  : 

Combinations  of  the  products  indicated  under  a)  1.  and 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN,  DW 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  N,  B 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


101 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


2.  Chromate  Process: 
Combinations  of 
Anthracene 


Anthracene 
Anthracene 
Anthracene 
Anthracene 
Anthracene 
Anthracene 
Anthracene 
for  saddening  if 
Anthracene 


Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS, 

[WG,  3G 

Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M 

Chromate  Red  Y 

Blue  Black  C 

Chromate  Grey  G 

Chromate  Blue  XR 

Chromate  Violet  XB 

Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra; 


necessary: 

Chromate 


Black  STW. 


c)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  SWN 
Anthracene  Yellow  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra. 


d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  Brilliant  Milling 
Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A,  Wool  Red  B, 
Diamine  Fast  Red  F. 


102 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 

Red,  Orange  and  Claret.* 

a)  For  carbonised  material  which  has  not  been  neutralised: 
1.  After -Chroming  Process: 


Red  : 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

Orange: 

The  same  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN 

Claret: 

The  same,  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

The  same  dyestuffs  as  indicated  for  dyeing 
by  the  After-Chroming  Process. 

b)  For  uncarbonised  (all-wool)  or  neutralised  material: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 


Red  : 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A. 

Orange: 

The  same  dyestuffs,  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN,  R,  C. 

Claret: 

The  same  dyestuffs,  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

2.  Chromate  Process 


Red  : 

Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y,  6R. 

Or  ange : 

The  same  dyestuffs,  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  RN,  BN,  R,  C. 

Claret: 

The  same  dyestuffs,  shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 

3.  Chromed  Wool: 

The  same  dyestuffs  as  indicated  under 
b)  1 to  be  dyed  by  the  After-Chroming 
Process. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


103 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


c)  For  particularly  bright  Reds: 

Milling  Red  G 
Wool  Red  B 

shaded  if  necessary  with 

Milling  Yellow  0 or 
Formyl  Violet  S4B 

(dyed  to  best  advantage  on  neutralised  or  at 
least  partially  neutralised  material). 

d)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Anthracene  Yellow  C. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow,  all  brands,  Rhodamine  B, 
Formyl  Violet  S4B,  Milling  Red  G,  Wool 
Red  B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


104 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


Yellow  and  Green.* 

a)  For  carbonised  material  which  has  not  been  neutralised: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  BN 

Green:  Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SAS. 


b)  For  uncarbonised  (all-wool)  or  neutralised  material: 

1.  After -Chroming  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  C,  GG  (the  GG 
brand  fixed  with  chromium  fluoride) 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BB 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  C,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G; 
for  saddening: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B,  PPC  extra. 

2.  Chromate  Process: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M,  GG 

Green:  Anthracene  Chromate  Green  B,  KFF  extra 

or 

Combinations  of  the  same' with 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  M,  GG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G. 

* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


105 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


3.  Chromed  Wool: 

Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  C,  BN 

Green:  Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
or 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  BW  extra 
Anthracene  Yellow  C,  BN 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  SE,  G. 

c)  For  particularly  bright  Shades: 

1.  Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Yellow:  Milling  Yellow  O 

Green  : Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Tetra.  Cyanole  A 
shaded  if  necessary  with 
Milling  Yellow  0. 

d)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Tetra  Cyanole  A, 
Formyl  Blue  B. 

Dyeings  of  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B become  a 
little  paler  by  a severe  alkaline  treatment,  the 
original  shade  returning  however  when  souring  off 
subsequently. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


- 106  — 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


Blue  and  Violet.* 

a)  For  carbonised  material  which  has  not  been  neutralised: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  BB,  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
or  more  cheaply  with 
Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR,  SBB 
and 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B. 

b)  For  uncarbonised  (all-wool)  or  neutralised  material: 

1.  After-Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  EB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
or  more  cheaply  with 
Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPC  extra,  F,  PBB 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DNG 
and 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra,  BW  extra, 

G,  R 

Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  EB,  RR. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  RRW  extra 
Anthracene  Chromate  Violet  XB. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  pages  3,  5 and  7. 


107 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


4.  Dyed  direct  with  the  addition  of  acetate 
of  ammonia:** 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra,  5RN,  GN. 


c)  For  particularly  bright  Blues  and  Violets: 
Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B. 


d)  Fast  to  Potting  and  Cross-Dyeing: 

Dyed  by  the  After-Chroming  Process: 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  BB,  G. 


e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Formyl  Blue  B,  Tetra 
Cyanole  A,  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B,  Formyl 
Violet  S4B— 10B,  Wool  Red  B. 


**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
pages  G and  8. 


108 


Dyestuffs  for  Shoddy. 


Black.* 

a)  For  carbonised  material  which  has  not  been  neutralised: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

With  very  good  fastness  to  milling,  particularly  next 
to  white  wool: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SAS,  SASG,  SASB,  SASN. 

b)  For  uncarbonised  (all-wool)  or  neutralised  material: 

After-Chroming  Process: 

With  very  good  fastness  to  milling  and  light: 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF,  DNG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  5B. 

With  best  possible  fastness  to  milling  and  potting: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  1465  J,  PF  extra, 
PPC  extra. 

c)  For  articles  to  be  cross-dyed: 

After - Chroming  Process: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  1465  J,  PF  extra 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  5B 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DSF. 

d)  For  light  milling  (with  good  fastness  to  washing) : 

Dyed  in  an  acid  bath:** 

Alphanol  Black  BG,  R,  3B,  3BN. 

e)  Dyestuffs  for  Shading  Purposes: 

Anthracene  Yellow,  all  brands,  Anthracene  Acid 
Brown  G,  Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A,  Anthra- 
cene Acid  Blue  EB,  ER,  Brilliant  Milling 
Green  B,  Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  Tetra 
Cyanole  A,  Formyl  Violet  S4B— 10B,  Wool 
Red  B,  Milling  Yellow  O. 


* For  dyeing  directions  see  page  5. 

**  For  dyeing  directions  see  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 
page  6. 


109 


G.  Vigoureux  Printing 

(Printing  of  Slubbing). 


Apart  from  their  application  for  the  dyeing  of  loose 
wool,  slubhing,  yarn,  piece-goods,  hats,  etc.,  the  Anthracene 
Chrome  and  Anthracene  Acid  Colours  are  largely  employed  for 
Vigoureux  printing.  They  are  especially  serviceable  when  the 
printed  slubbing  is  required  to  be  of  best  fastness  because  of 
its  use  for  the  making  of  men’s  wear. 

The  dyestuffs  are  dissolved,  for  the  production  of  the  print 
pastes,  in  a small  amount  of  boiling  water;  the  solution  is  then 
boiled  up  with  the  thickening,  and  on  cooling  off  sufficiently 
the  whole  is  mixed  with  the  other  ingredients  well  dissolved, 
and  stirred  until  cold. 

When  dissolving  dyestuffs  sensitive  to  copper  it  is  well 
to  add  a little  sulphocyanide  of  ammonia. 

The  print  pastes  used  for  Vigoureux  printing  must  not  be 
too  thick,  such  thickening  agents  being  given  the  preference 
as  are  easily  removed  from  the  fibre  by  washing.  British 
gum,  and  more  recently  also  sennar  gum  (Vigoureux  gum),  are 
extensively  used  for  the  purpose;  beside  these,  tragacanth,  dex- 
trine and  starch  come  mainly  into  consideration. 

The  fixing  agents  for  Chrome  Colours  which  have  proved 
particularly  useful  are:  chromium  fluoride,  formate  of  chrome, 
acetate  of  chrome,  and  Chromaline,  but  in  certain  cases  yellow 
chromate  of  potash  proves  of  good  service. 

Recipes  for  Print  Pastes, 

for  Anthracene  Chrome  and  Anthracene  Acid  Colours. 

A)  With  Oxalate  of  Ammonia. 

10 — 100  parts  dyestuff  are  dissolved  in 


590—500 

,,  water  and  boiled  up  with 

45 

,,  sennar  gum  (Vigoureux  gum)  or  a 
corresponding  amount  of  some  other 
thickening;  when  cold, 

5—  50 

,,  chromium  fluoride, 

30—  50 

,,  oxalate  of  ammonia  and 

5 

,,  chlorate  of  soda,  dissolved  in 

315—250 

,,  water,  are  added 

approx.  1000 

parts. 

no 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  of  Slubbing). 


B)  With  Oxalic  Acid. 


10 — 100  parts 

dyestuff  are  dissolved  in 

590—500  „ 

water  and  boiled  up  with 

45  „ 

sennar  gum  (Vigoureux 

gum)  or  a 

• 

corresponding  amount  of  some  other 
thickening;  when  cold, 

5—  50  „ 

chromium  fluoride, 

10—  30  „ 

oxalic  acid  and 

5 „ 

chlorate  of  soda,  dissolved 

In 

335—270  „ 

water,  are  added. 

approx.  1000  parts. 

Instead  of  chromium  fluoride,  an  equal  amount  of  formate 
of  chrome  or  of  Chromaline,  or  3 to  4 times  the  amount  of  ace- 
tate of  chrome  of  32°  Tw.,  may  he  used. 

When  printing  with  Anthracene  Chrome  Black  P extra, 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  F,  BB  and  R,  Anthracene  Chrome 
Violet  B,  Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE  or  Vigoureux  Green  B, 
3 parts  sulphocyanide  of  ammonia  per  1000  parts  print  paste 
should  be  added  to  the  dyestuff  on  dissolving. 

After  printing,  steam  damp  twice  over  for  \XA  hours  at 
a time  at  slight  pressure  (about  K — K atm.),  then  wash  as 
usual,  soap,  dry,  and  comb. 

An  addition  of  about  10  parts  Turkey-red  oil  per  1000 
parts  print  paste  facilitates  the  wetting  of  the  slubbing  and  (he 
penetration  of  the  print  paste. 


ill 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  of  Slubbing). 


Grey  and  Mode  Shades. 

Combinations  of  the  under  mentioned  dyestuffs  are  used, 
or  stock  solutions  are  prepared  of  Yellow,  Red  and  Blue  or 
Blue-black,  and  these  are  mixed  in  the  proportion  required. 

Best  suited  combinations:  • 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D 
Vigoureux  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G,  F 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Vigoureux  Green  B 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 

Best  suited  for  stock  solutions: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Vigoureux  Red  A 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 


Printing  Method 
B or  A. 


Printing  Method 
B or  A. 


For  Greys,  the  print  pastes  for  Blacks  are  frequently 
used,  being  printed  with  a small  printing  surface;  for  such 
purpose  the  following  are  particularly  well  suited: 


Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black 

P extra 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black 

PPN  extra 
Vigoureux  Black  S 


Printing  Method  A. 


Printing  Method 
B or  A. 


112 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  of  Slubbing). 


Brown  and  Olive. 


With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Light  and  Milling: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D, 

DW,  SWN 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown 

DWN 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown 
EB,  WS,  WG 
and  combinations  of  these  dyestuffs  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG 
Vigoureux  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F, 

BB,  G,  R 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green 
KFF  extra 
Vigoureux  Green  B 


Printing  Method 
B or  A 


Printing 
Method  A 


Printing  Method 
B or  A. 


Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

Vigoureux  Brown  N,  B,  SW,  V 
shaded  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G Printing 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F Method  a. 

Tetra  Cyanole  A 


113 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  of  Slubbing). 


Red,  Orange  and  Claret. 


i)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Light  and  Milling: 


Red:  Anthracene  Chrome  Red  G 

Diamine  Fast  Red  F 
Vigoureux  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

Orange:  The  same  dyestuffs 
shaded  with 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 

Claret:  Vigoureux  Red  A 

shaded  with 
Anthracene  Chrome 

Violet  B 


Printing  Method  A 


jprinti 
| Pri 


Printing  Method 
B or  A 


Printing  Method 
B or  A 


Printing  Method 
B or  A. 


For  particularly  bright  Shades: 

Red:  Diamine  Scarlet  B,  3B 

Orange  : The  same  dyestuffs 
shaded  with 

Diamine  Fast  Yellow  FF 
Diamine  Yellow  CP 


Claret:  Wool  Red  B 


are  printed  according 
to  Printing  Method  A 
or  B,  but  without  the 
use  of  a chrome  salt 
and  acid  or  of  oxalate 
of  ammonia,  with  the 
addition  however  of 
5 — 20  parts  phosphate 
of  soda  per  1000  parts 
print  paste, 
to  be  printed  according  to  Printing 
Method  A or  B,  either  with  or 
without  chrome  salts. 


114 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  ol  Stubbing). 


Yellow  and  Green. 


With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Light  and  Milling: 


Yellow:  Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  GG,  C 


Green : 


Vigoureux  Green  B 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green 
KFF  extra 
shaded  if  necessary  with 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  GG 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 


Printing 
Method  B or  A. 


For  particularly  bright  Prints: 

Yellow:  Milling  Yellow  0 

Green  : Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G 

Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
shaded  if  necessary  with 
Milling  Yellow  0 


are  printed 
according  to 
Printing  Method 
A or  B either 
with  or  without 
chrome  salts. 


115 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  of  Slubbing). 


Blue  and  Violet. 

With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Light  and  Milling: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F,  BB,  G 

R,  b’ 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  Printing 

extra*,  BW  extra*  [Method  b or  a. 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  EB,  ER 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

Cheaper  Method  of  Production: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F 
or 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black 

P extra,  PPN  extra 
Vigoureux  Black  S 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  BE 
and 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Formyl  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B 


Printing 
Method  A 


Printing 
Method  B or  A. 


* Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra  and  BW  extra  are  mixed  to  a 
paste  with  half  their  weight  of  ammonia  liquor  and  then  brought  into  solution 
by  pouring  hot  water  over  them. 


116 


Vigoureux  Printing  (Printing  of  Slubbing). 


Black. 

a)  With  best  possible  Fastness  to  Light  and  Milling: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F,  FE}  Meth^A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  | Printing  Method 

PPN  extra,  P extra,  5B  j B or  a. 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  PPN  extra  is  eminently  fast 
to  light. 

b)  With  good  Fastness  to  Milling  and  Light: 

Anthracene  Acid  Black  SR 
Vigoureux  Black  S 

c)  For  Goods  to  be  cross-dyed: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black 

P extra 

d)  For  Prints  fast  to  Potting: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Black 

P extra,  PPN  e 

The  following  dyestuffs  are  used  for  shading: 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN,  Vigoureux  Red  A, 
Vigoureux  Green  B,  Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  F. 


Printing 
Method  B. 


5B  } 


1 Printing 
/ Method  A 

Printing 
Method  B. 


I Printing 
xtra  I Method  B. 


117 


H.  Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


Dyeing  Directions  for  Colours. 

For  ready-milled  hats  and  for  stiffened  hats,  the  two-bath 
method  is  usually  applied.  Very  good  results  may  however 
also  be  obtained  by  the  after-chroming  method.  The  chromate 
process,  in  addition  to  its  use  in  the  dyeing  of  half-milled  fur 
felt  (shapes),  has  been  found  very  serviceable  for  the  dyeing 
of  light  weight  fur  felts  which  are  stiffened  after  dyeing.. 

1.  After-Chroming  Method. 

Charge  the  bath  with 

1 — 3 % sulphuric  acid  (according  to  the  depth  of 
shade  and  the  amount  of  acid  con- 
tained in  the  goods)  and 
the  dyestuff;  or, 

for  thicker  shapes  and  bodies,  with 
5 — 10  % Glauber’s  salt, 

1 — 3 % sulphuric  acid  and 
the  dyestuff. 

Enter  the  well  wetted  or  boiled  felts  at  40 — 50°  C.  (105 — 120 
deg.  F.),  raise  in  24  to  % hour  to  the  hoil,  and  boil  for 
24  to  1 hour.  Hereafter  cool  the  bath  off  to  60—70°  C.  (140—160 
deg.  F.),  add  the  requisite  amount  of  bichrome  (about  one-third 
the  weight  of  the  dyestuff,  and  in  the  case  of  shapes  even  for 
deep  shades  not  more  than  1,5  % of  the  weight  of  the  goods), 
raise  again  to  the  boil,  and  finally  boil  for  another  half  hour. 

When  dyeing  felts  containing  acid  with  dyestuffs 
requiring  acetic  acid  for  starting  the  dyeing  (see  page  4), 
commence  with  the  addition  of  5 — 10  % Glauber’s  salt  only,  if 
necessary  adding  1 —2  % sulphuric  acid  after  % hour’s  boiling. 
Felts  which  have  been  milled  alkaline  are  dyed  with  the 
addition  of  5 — 10  % Glauber’s  salt  and  2 — 3 % acetic  acid, 
1—3  % sulphuric  acid  being  added  after  24  hour’s  boiling.  The 
chroming  in  both  cases  is  carried  out  as  described  above. 

Felts  containing  much  acid,  for  instance  carbonised 
felts,  before  dyeing  are  to  advantage  neutralised  in  part  by 
adding  a little  ammonia,  borax  or  soda  to  the  wetting  liquor. 

Ready  milled  hat  bodies  (stumps)  are  turned  inside  out 
before  entering  the  dyebath.  They  are  turned  round  again 


118 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


previous  to  the  chroming  and  entered  right  side  outwards  into 
the  chroming  bath. 

In  the  case  of  shapes  (half-felted  material)  it  is  only 
necessary  to  turn  when  dyeing  short-milled  felt. 

Regarding  the  subsequent  shading  and  the  dyeing  in 
copper  vessels  see  pages  8 and  4 respectively. 

2.  Dyeing  on  a Chrome  Mordant. 

Mordant  the  goods  for  1 to  VA  hours  at  the  boil  w7‘th 
2 — 4 % bichrome  and 
1 A — 3 % tartar, 

rinse,  and  dye  in  a fresh  bath.  Enter  lukewarm,  raise  gradually 
to  the  boil,  and  boil  for  1 to  1H  hours;  for  darker  shades  add 
subsequently  about  3 % acetic  acid  in  order  to  completely  ex- 
haust the  bath.  Instead  of  tartar,  other  assistants  may  likewise 
be  used. 

For  particulars  of  the  subsequent  shading  and  the  dyeing 
in  copper  vessels  see  pages  8 and  2 respectively. 

3.  Chromate  Process. 

Dissolve  the  dyestuffs  in  hot  water,  and  add  them  to  the 
dyebath;  raise  the  bath  to  the  boil,  cool  off,  add  the  above- 
mentioned  weight  of  bichrome,  and  enter  the  felts  at  50 — 70°  C. 
(120 — 160  deg.  F.).  Treat  the  goods  at  this  temperature  for  15  to 
20  minutes,  and  after  raising  again  to  the  boil,  dye  at  the 
simmer  for  VA  to  1%  hours.  In  the  case  of  pale  and  medium 
shades  the  bath  is  sufficiently  well  exhausted,  but  for  deep 
shades  it  is  advisable  to  gradually  add  1 — 3 % acetic  acid,  well 
diluted,  after  an  hour’s  boiling. 

Acid-milled  or  carbonised  felts  before  dyeing  should 
be  neutralised  by  boiling  out,  if  necessary  with  the  addition  of 
a little  borax  or  ammonia. 

For  particulars  regarding  subsequent  shading  see  page  8. 

Dyeing  Directions  for  Black. 

1.  Hat  Chrome  Black,  Anthracene  Chrome 
Black  and  Anthracene  Acid  Black. 

For  soft  hats,  charge  the  dyebath  with 

5 — 15  % Glauber’s  salt  crystals  and  the  requisite 
dyestuff; 

enter  the  wetted  out  or  boiled  shapes  at  50 — 60°  C.  (120 — 140 
deg.  F.),  raise  in  20  to  30  minutes  to  the  boil,  and  boil  for  % to 
1 hour  until  the  hats  are  dyed  through,  then  add  in  several 
portions,  3 — 4%  sulphuric  acid,  well  diluted,  for  wool  hats  and 


119 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


4—6%  for  fur  hats,  boiling  finally  for  another  20  minutes  after 
adding  the  last  portion  of  acid. 

Hereafter  chrome  in  a fresh  liquor  with  the  addition  of 

2 —  2K  % bichrome  and 

2 % hydrochloric  acid 

for  30  to  40  minutes  at  the  simmer.  It  is  not  necessary  to  rinse 
the  bodies  before  chroming. 

In  the  case  of  soap-milled  wool  hat  bodies,  add 

3 —  5 % acetic  acid 

to  the  dyebath  in  addition  to  10  % Glauber’s  salt,  and  dye  as 
decribed  above. 

When  dyeing  with  Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F or  FE,  or 
with  combinations  thereof,  the  bath  should  be  corrected  before- 
hand, according  to  the  hardness  of  the  water,  with  5 — 10  oz 
oxalate  of  ammonia  per  100  gallons  liquor,  and  stirred  well 
before  adding  the  dyestuff.  Glauber  s salt  and  acid. 

In  the  case  of  stiffened  hats,  commence  dyeing  straight- 
away at  70 — 80°  C.  (160—175  deg.  F. ),  without  any  Glauber’s  salt, 
but  with  the  addition  of  1 — 2 % sulphuric  acid,  or  10  % bisulphate 
of  soda,  or  again  5 % acetic  acid;  raise  immediately  to  the  boil, 
and  after  boiling  gently  for  K hour  add  in  two  portions  2 — 4 % 
sulphuric  acid  well  diluted  with  cold  water.  After  K hour’s 
boiling,  chrome  as  already  described. 

2.  Alphanol  Black. 

Charge  the  bath  with  10  % Glauber’s  salt  crystals  and  the 
requisite  dyestuff;  enter  the  wetted  out  or  well  boiled  bodies  at 
about  50°  C.  (120  deg.  F.),  raise  to  the  boil,  and  boil  for  about 
IK  to  IK  hours  until  penetration  is  complete.  In  order  to  com- 
pletely exhaust  the  bath,  2 — 4 % acetic  acid  or  a little  sulphuric 
acid  may  be  added  subsequently. 

In  the  case  of  soap-milled  wool  bodies,  commence 
dyeing  with  10%  Glauber’s  salt  and  2 — 3%  acetic  acid,  proceed- 
ing in  other  respects  as  described  above. 

In  the  case  of  men’s  wool  hats  which  are  subjected  to 
severer  steaming,  it  is  recommended  to  after-treat  without 
steam  for  20  minutes  with  3 % sulphate  of  copper  after 
exhaustion  of  the  bath  in  order  to  improve  the  fastness  to 
steaming. 

For  stiffened  hats,  commence  dyeing  straightaway  at 
70 — 80°  C.  (160 — 175  deg.  F. ),  with  the  addition  of  5 % acetic  acid 
or  1 — IK  % sulphuric  acid,  and  after  boiling  for  K hour  add 
2 — 4 % sulphuric  acid  well  diluted  with  cold  water,  dyeing  then 
for  another  K hour  at  a gentle  boil. 


— 120 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


Dyestuffs  for  Grey,  Mode  and  Brown  Shades  on  Hat  Felts.  * 

(Grey,  Beige,  Drab,  Beaver,  Nutria,  Havana,  Tobacco,  Coffee,  etc.) 

1.  After-Chroming  Method: 

For  Wool  and  Fur  Shapes: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  BN 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Bed  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra. 

Cheaper  combinations: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
and 

Tetra  Cyanole  A for  saddening. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  118. 


2.  Chromed  Wool: 

For  ready-milled  soft  and  stiff  Wool  and  Fur  Hats: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 

Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 

Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 

Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 


* The  combinations  which  are  dyed  direct  in  an  acid  hath  are  indicated 
on  page  118  of  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II.  (No.  2939). 


121 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


3.  Chromate  Process: 

For  Fur  Shapes  and  Hats  which  are  stiffened  after  dyeing: 
Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS, 

[WG,  3G 

Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL 
Anthracene  Chromate  Red  Y 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR,  MGG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 


For  light  Shades  on  Shapes  or  Settled  Felts  to  be 
dyed  in  a milling  or  sizing  machine,  the  follow- 
ing dyestuffs  are  used: 


For  light  beige,  drab,  etc.: 

The  Anthracene  Colours 
indicated  under  1 and  3. 

For  light  grey:  Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
shaded  if  necessary  with 

Formyl  Violet  S4B — 10B 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 


in  combination 
with  ochre, 
graphite  or  talc. 


# 

Dyestuffs  for  Red  on  Fezzes.* 

See  instructions  on  page  70. 


* The  combinations  which  are  dyed  direct  in  an  acid  bath  are  indicated 
on  page  105  of  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Yol.  II  (No.  2989). 


122 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


Dyestuffs  for  Green  and  Olive  on  Fur  Felt.* 

1.  After-Chroming  Method: 

For  Wool  and  Fur  Shapes: 

Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  D,  DWN 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
brightened  if  necessary  with 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Cheaper  Combinations: 

Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  DWN. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  118. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

For  fully  milled  soft  or  stiffened  Wool  and  Fur  Hats: 
Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  G 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN,  RN 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  G 
Anthracene  Chrome  Red  A 
Anthracene  Chrome  Brown  SWN 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  WS,  WG 
Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
shaded  if  necessary  with 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B. 

Cyanole  Fast  Green  G. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 


* The  combinations  which  are  dyed  direct  in  an  acid  bath  are  indicated 
on  page  120  of  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939). 


123 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


3.  Chromate  Process: 

For  Fur  Shapes  and  Hats  which  are  stiffened  after  dyeing: 
Combinations  of 

Anthracene  Chromate  Green  KFF  extra 
Anthracene  Blue  Black  C 
Anthracene  Chromate  Grey  G 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Yellow  KL,  GG 
Anthracene  Chromate  Brown  EB,  ER,  WS, 

[WG,  3G 

Alizarine  Brilliant  Green  G,  SE 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 


124 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


Dyestuffs  for  Blue  and  Violet  on  Hat  Felt.* 

1.  After-Chroming  Method: 

For  Wool  and  Fur  Shapes: 

Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER,  EB 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  FR,  BB,  R 
Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B 
saddened  if  necessary  with 

Anthracene  Blue  Black  C,  BE 
or  brightened  with 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B — 10B 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  118. 

2.  Chromed  Wool: 

For  ready-milled  soft  or  stiffened  Wool  and  Fur  Hats: 

Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra,  BW  extra, 

G,  R,  BB 

Anthracene  Chrome  Violet  B. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 

3.  Chromate  Process: 

For  Fur  Shapes  and  Hats  which  are  stiffened  after  dyeing: 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  XR 
Anthracene  Chromate  Blue  MGG 
shaded  with 

Formyl  Violet  S4B — 10B 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B,  further 
Anthracene  Chrome  Blue  RRW  extra. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 


* The  combinations  which  are  dyed  direct  in  an  acid  bath  are  indicate^ 
on  pages  123  and  124  of  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939), 


125 


Dyestuffs  for  Hat  Dyeing. 


Dyestuffs  for  Black  Fur  or  Wool  Hats  stiffened,  soft  or  to  be  stiffened 
and  alkali-cleared.  * 

1.  A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Method: 

For  Blue-Black: 

Hat  Chrome  Black  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  DNG. 

For  Deep  Black: 

Hat  Chrome  Black  BT 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  F 
Anthracene  Acid  Black  ST,  DSF,  DSN,  DSFB, 
shaded  if  necessary  with 

Hat  Chrome  Black  B 
Anthracene  Chrome  Black  5B 
or 

Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Tetra  Cyanole  A 
Anthracene  Acid  Blue  ER,  EB 
Anthracene  Yellow  BN. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  119. 

2.  Dyed  in  an  acid  bath  without  after- 
chroming: 

For  cheaper  Blacks  produced  in  the  simplest  manner: 
Alphanol  Black  BG,  R,  3BN 
shaded  if  necessary  with 

Alphanol  Blue  BR  extra 
Brilliant  Milling  Blue  B 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Naphtol  Dark  Green  G. 

For  dyeing  directions  see  page  120. 


* The  combinations  which  are  dyed  direct  in  an  acid  bath  are  indicated 
on  pages  126  and  127  of  our  “Manual  of  Dyeing”,  Vol.  II  (No.  2939). 


126 


Without  guarantee. 


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